by jkr Wed Mar 02, 2011 5:05 am
here goes;
this is not hard to do but it is reverse logic, if you understand that your on your way. the best and simplest way to adjust the linkage is,
with engine NOT running,
first remove kickdown linkage from the carb linkage.
make sure the carb is on the idle screw
pull it forward as far as it will go and see if it still slides onto the carb stud.
if not don't worry for a minute.
next hold the gas pedal to the floor and THEN try to move the linkage at the carb further back. removes free play and loosness in linkage.
while holding pedal to floor and carb linkage wide open push kickdown to the rear of the vehicle till it wont go any further and try to place it back on the linkage.
if it won't slide onto the stud at wide open throttle adjust it till it does and release it. it should now slide onto the stud at idle with you pulling it forward.
with a carb change and linkages bent and loose there will be slight variations to this but the end result will take a few test drives to get it the best for your driving style. by doing the above will get you in the right area and minor adjustments will tune it in better. i have a dozen different rods and linkages but could never get mine to work right till i found out the older transmissions have a different govoner and valve body combination and the guy who made my first trans used an "assorment" of parts from several trannys.
the big thing to remember is not to make big radical changes at once just small incremental adjustments as the linkage controls hydraulic pressure and thats another story.
also if your kickdown is a factory rod the end at the carb is the only place to adjust it and do them one turn at a time.
you also commented on your carb secondarys in another post ; the edelbrock carbs are vacume secondarys but without a vacume canister to operate them. the top butterflys are on a linkage but the lowers are vacume and don't look to see if there working in case it backfires through the carb. those edelbrock carbs are a direct decendant of the notorious A.F.B. carbs of the 60's.
if you have any experience working with a newer edelbrock or an old A.F.B. you know what the letters stand for, All For Backfiring.
good luck..........