Good move or bad move?

I was thinking of putting this on my bare metal before primer thoughts??

It's probably a phosphoric acid "rust catalyst". Lots of different manufacturers make similar products (prep-n-prime, prep-n-etch, ospho)and they tend to have different methods of cleanup and types of applications. If your bare metal was painted and/or rusted at all then I would clean/sand it to good metal and apply an acid catalyst like this, clean up using the directions on the bottle.

I'm working through a bottle of "Right Stuff" at the moment and it gets kind of tacky when it dries, directions say to clean up with mineral spirits after for this particular product. If your metal isn't rusted or wasnt rusted in the past I'd use a "rustoleum" type primer and roll with that.

Be warned that the rust catalysts in some cases can screw up a future paint job, i.e. if it gets in the cracks and weeps back out under your future paint job. It's really good stuff but clean up after it.

eta: what does the bottle say about pre-paint application?

Not much thats why I ask. I feel like it would be good on the rust spots but unnecessary on the bare metal. So with that I think I will use it on the rust only.

The best advise I can give anyone when discussing body and paint is to read the instructions (including the MDS sheets) of all the products (always a good idea) and to pick ONE trusted source, either a good painter or a body supply counter person with actual experience and follow that ONE PERSON'S ADVISE!!!
There are a lot of different ways to get the job done, lots of pitfalls, and at least as many opinions as there are people in the room. Follow only one sucessful path for your first few tries, then develop your own best methods.
If you get a ton of different opinions, it will confuse you and many will conflict.

Most all will say that clean is very important, mixing product lines requires knowledge, and practice makes perfect. The right materials and tools makes things better/easier and temps are important.
They tend to go in different directions after that.

Agree with you on that. The question is who is right? This is my first real attempt at painting a whole van,and I'm worried and excited at the same time. In the world of forums youtube and buddys down the road the possibilitys are endless short of $$$$$$$$. I think I have read enough not to make a bad decision so I guess we will find out at the NATS!!!!! (Dr. Evil laugh)

If you listen to 10 keyboard jockeys (including me, I haven't painted a car), your odds are maybe 1 in 10 (and that one ain't me!!!).
If you listen to 10 local, pro painters that you have seen the results, the odds are much better.
Try to find that rare beast, the guy that can do it well, and can teach a newbie too! There are guys that can shoot but can't teach, guys that can tell a tale but won't help when the chips are down, and guys that do stuff all wrong but it turns out right.
You want the guy that will be able to help you when you need it. It's been said by others that anyone can shoot paint, a good painter is the one that can fix the stuff that goes wrong. That's the help you will need, along with the methods to minimize them.

Dammit Rod why do you make this so hard!!!

Just be glad you don't own a shop.
You only have to find one for a short time. A shop has to keep fully staffed, and painters iz crazzie!

I used a product called rust mort on surface rust, it disolves
rust just takes time. after I used self etching epoxy primer
over all bare metal before all body filler, leveling with 36 grit
air board paper, then filler primer sand with 180 till straight
filler primer once more final blocking with 400 primer sealer
then the single or base coat clear coat. the rust mort I got from
a ppg professional paint store was about 20.00 per qt.