Carpet Question

I'm will start working on the interior this winter and plan to cover some of the walls/ceiling with carpet. It won't look like I want to unless it lies perfectly flat on the 1/4" (or slightly thinner) plywood. I'm planning on using cut-pile auto carpet (which I have yet to buy).

I'm thinking I will spray adhesive onto both the carpet back and plywood, let it get tacky for 15-20 minutes, then apply to the plywood. After that take my wife's very best rolling pin and work the carpet over well to assure good consistent adhesion.

I've not done this before but I think it will work. Any alternative suggestions or tips are most welcome.

I don't know anything about interiors. But I wouldn't use the wifes rolling pin unless I want to get whacked in the nogin with it! You wouldn't believe my wifes expression when she saw me mixing paint useing a pyrex measureing cup. She thaught it was hers!

I've used lots of the 3m spray adhesive for auto interiors, never used a rolling pin. doubt that will be necessary.

Best way I have found is when doing the back is make two templates. One from the back of the side doors forward around the doghouse to under the seats using at least 3/4" plywood, 1" is better. And a second one for the back section. Pre-fit the plywood sections drill all mounting holes (For seats too). The apply 3m spray adhesive, then carpet stretching it from one side to the other (Staple gun to hold first edge) and rolling the carpet under the edges at least 2". Also after cutting the plywood use a sealer to prevent warping later on.

Doing it this way will allow you to completely remove it later if you need to do any major work without destroying you nice carpet work.

Dan

southern man wrote:I'm will start working on the interior this winter and plan to cover some of the walls/ceiling with carpet. It won't look like I want to unless it lies perfectly flat on the 1/4" (or slightly thinner) plywood. I'm planning on using cut-pile auto carpet (which I have yet to buy).

I'm thinking I will spray adhesive onto both the carpet back and plywood, let it get tacky for 15-20 minutes, then apply to the plywood. After that take my wife's very best rolling pin and work the carpet over well to assure good consistent adhesion.

I've not done this before but I think it will work. Any alternative suggestions or tips are most welcome.

are you saying you want the carpet flat and wrinkle free on the plywood ?....or that the plywood is going to be installed flat, and not contoured to the inside of van ?
there is a brown "form board" stuff that comes in 4x8 sheets, i think its called masonite, cuts easy and is incredibly strong while being very flexible....i think its an 1/8th" thick....
when it comes time to screw it in place, a good tip is to cut a small X in the carpet where the screw is going,and peel the edges back a little bit, this will make sure you dont snag and cause a run, the trim ring will cover it up when tightened down, and pre drilling is always good

"are you saying you want the carpet flat and wrinkle free on the plywood ?...."

Yes, that is what I'm saying. I hadn't thought about the "masonite" but I think I know what you mean. I'll have to look at it.

The thinner the better for the backing board, up to a point, so it can in fact fit the curved contour of the ribs.

And thanks for the screw tip! I was in fact concerned about the drill snagging the carpet but I think I'll pre-drill the boards before I install the carpet, locate the holes after the carpet is glued on, and then cut the small X as you suggest.

The only problem I can see with the 1/8 or 1/4 is the "OOPS" factor of banging into it or falling and cracking or breaking the backer. Dan's idea of 3/4 would make things more durable.

3/4 is fine for the floor but overkill and harder to form than the thinner panels. Even 1/2" is too much for walls, in my opinion. (Unless of course you're protecting the walls from rolling auto parts, firewood, etc.)

use pipe cleaners if your going to pre drill and then install carpet, going from the back side, use an ice pick to punch carpet, and the stick a piece of pipe cleaner thrue....that way you will be able to find the holes from the carpet side when you screw it in place

Agreed. 3/4" is to much for the walls. 1/4 is perfect for those but wouldn't use anything less than 3/4 on the floors unless you want to be re-doing it every year....

are the floors of these vans "grooved" like a pick up truck bed ??

if so, you might want to check out bedrug.com, the sell carpet kits for truck beds that has a grooved rubber backing to fit the grooves on the floor....

made to stand up to much abuse, and really smooths the floor out without having to resort to using 200 pounds of 3/4" plywood as a backer

any reason 1/2" isnt good enough ??

Yeah... they are grooved. G-man gave us a sample in the goodie bags at Baker's, pretty cool stuff. Would insulate the floor and dampen road nosie. If I was going to use the bedrug I'd still use bedliner first.

I swear by the 1/8 inch thick plywood called Luan.
This stuff is heavy enough to use on the walls and will hold carpet .Naugahyde another layer of wood..pretty much what ever you want to apply on top of it.
it is pretty easy to cut.(A fine tooth blade in a circular saw works grat for straight cuts and a fine tooth metal blade in a jig saw works great for curves.
this stul will flex enough to take the sahpe of roff and side posts.moisture will not be too hard on it.

i used two layers in a no side door i built a while back.
the outer layers of Luan was covered with a sewn pleat Naugahyde.
the van suffered a bad interior fir after I sold it.
the fire gutted the cab.The back section of the no side door burned but the fire and heat did not penetrate the two layers of plywood which saved the no side doors outer skin......

A rolling pin is not necessary.you can apply the clue lay the carpet over it.With extra around the edges that can be stretched and stapled to the back side of the panels.
The stretching of the carpet with the glue will pull the carpet nice and flat.
some nice trim screws in the right places and tthe panels can be hung and the screws will al most disappear.....

kere is a door panel iam working on cut out of luan



...........Wookee