Shes on the road!!! finally

just put insurance on my 65, rebuilt 170, all the brakes are done.
drives well but feels like there should be more power. i feel like my vac advance isnt working properly.

when i put vacume on the distrib i can see it advance with the cap off but wen i measure vac at the carb im lucky to see 2.5 inches of vac.


my main question is what kind of vacume should i be getting at the carb?

carb is all rebuilt btw with a new"spark control valve"


oh and secondly,

gas tank is being boiled and relined but didnt have any filler neck hose or cap.
all that is there is a hole with what looks like 3 screw holes...what do i need??

Should be a steady 18 inches at idle.
You need the fill and vent tube that is held on by 3 screws that you see and of course a gas cap.
Hope this helps.

I'm asuming the vacume ports in the carb must be clogged with shit?

There is manifold vacuum.....and there is ported vacuum....Im pretty sure the advance is run off ported vacuum....which increases with rpm....usually little to none at idle but at high rpm you can really feel it pulling hard...Ive never measured it with a guage.

Manifold vacuum can be used for other things like power brake boosters..transmission modulator valves and such...I don't know if any vehicles use manifold vacuum for distrubutor vacuum advances.

With a guage and under load at high rpm there is only 2.5 inches of vac...I'm gunna order a mech advance mallory unilite and it should solve all my problems...would anyone be interested in a set of petronix...they have less then 5 hours on them

under load and high rpm = low vacuum. check the basic's first then worry about vacuum

With a timing light you should be able to see what initial timing is, what mechanical advance you get (vacuum line off and plugged) and how much vacuum advance you get (connect line).
Better to buy a triming light than a dist. that has LESS features than stock.
Mechanical only is for racing (WOT), not street driving.

im not sure i understand how it even works.
but what i thought was at idle you have no vacume on the dist., as engine rpm and load increase, vacume increases and the dist advances.(pulling the diaphram)

with mechanical advance, the distributor advances due to centripetal force as the engine spins faster. with different rated springs you can adjust the rate at which the distributor advances.


my problem that i am running into is there is no vacume at this stupid autolite 1100 crapbox carb wen under load.
wen i get a chance im gunna throw on this snap-on vacume tester and try to simulate vacume at the dist under load. hopefully it will have power.

i can barely get the van to roll without stalling and burning the clutch. once i get her to move its very slugish/sputtery, just really crappy.

Hey Joe, here is some good info to read up on. I think you will find it very helpful
http://www.classicinlines.com/Loadomatic.asp

I will try giving you a call in the next few days

__________
mike