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BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER.... A's, G's & E's


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RodStRace
donivan65
Digz
66BC
8 posters

    Wiring The 66 Beach Cruiser

    66BC
    66BC


    Number of posts : 159
    Location : Los Angeles/ Thousand Oaks, CA.
    Age : 45
    Registration date : 2010-01-05

    Wiring The 66 Beach Cruiser Empty Wiring The 66 Beach Cruiser

    Post by 66BC Fri Aug 13, 2010 12:25 am

    Been replacing both sides of my engine harness in my 66 with new wires, same color and guage as original. Getting bigger Gauge size for some like the Ignition wire. Trying to upgrade that whole wiring area. It all started with a short. My horn blasting nonstop and me disconnecting it and my van dieing on me on the road when I finally got her started made me look for a short. Found it. It was the pink ignition wire. most of the part that melted was the dash side. It was never connected through the harness connection, but by being twisted with another wire and covered with black tape which then went to the R in the starter. Figured out there is originally supposed to be a resistor wire hidden some where. Well, the wire that was there wasn't the original, and hence mostlikely not a resistance wire. Looking at the diagram I followed how everythng should be. The only thing ommited from the diagram are the backup lights that are included also in the harness. After replacing the wires all that is left is the issue of the no more resistance wire. Did First Generations have a resistance wire at the engine? In the book it shows a resistance wire in the brown accessorie wire under the dash. Its funny that it doesn't show anything in the diagram. For the Ignition wire at the engine side, A ballast reisistor I bought is an option. After some help from some fellow vanners and studying I finally understand the voltage resistance needed to feed the coil and also the importance of bypassing the resistance for startups... Anyways, I found a 2nd generation at the Junk Yard and went through the engine harness to find the resistance wire and there it was. I took it completely. Will this wire be the same for the 1st generation? ( is it the same resistance necessary?). Is it better to use the resistance wire or ballast resistor? Now that I'm upgrading do I fuse anything differently on the dash or engine side? I was just going to replace the pink ignition wire but I ended up going back and forth replacing everything in the way.

    Wiring The 66 Beach Cruiser DSC01850
    The new wires are being routed before taping them up to look like a true harness

    Wiring The 66 Beach Cruiser 046
    This is the ignition wire that shorted from the engine harness connection up to under the dash

    Wiring The 66 Beach Cruiser 045
    This is how ugly it looked under there.
    Digz
    Digz


    Number of posts : 3794
    Location : United States Six Lakes MI
    Registration date : 2008-05-17

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    Post by Digz Fri Aug 13, 2010 4:18 am

    The first gens had a resistance wire that ran from the coil to that burned out harness connector your showing. the wire or the ballast will do the same job.
    I cant think of any "resistance" wires under the dash. you can run directly from the ballast output to the coil. I dont know if there are any advantages to either way on the coil feed. The biggest heat maker through the harness should be the red dash feed. This is an area where Don has the best know how on fusible links and such. I just reccomend using relayed fused sub systems if you add high draw accessories.
    66BC
    66BC


    Number of posts : 159
    Location : Los Angeles/ Thousand Oaks, CA.
    Age : 45
    Registration date : 2010-01-05

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    Post by 66BC Fri Aug 13, 2010 4:32 pm

    I think I'm gonna go ahead and install that resistance wire into the harness then. Can't wait, to get the harness complete. I'ts weird, but its kind of exciting. I did go back to the junk yard again where the 2nd generation was and I did find the same brown with white stripe accessorie wire in that van that was also in my first generation. I also took that one complete as a spare. It wasn't covered in fabric type insulation like the engine resistance wire but if you look at the ends it is only a single silver type of wire coming out of it. Its different than the other wires in that it doesn't have several strands of copper wires coming out of it but just the one. In the diagram it doesnt show any of the resistance wires but earlier in the van supplement book it shows a resistance wire for the accessorie between the ignition switch and the gen light connection. It was either on igniton or starting systems section.
    donivan65
    donivan65
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    Location : San Diego, California
    Registration date : 2008-05-12

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    Post by donivan65 Fri Aug 13, 2010 6:30 pm

    The law says you need a 1.5 ohm resistor to cut down the voltage to the positive side of the coil because the points don't last too long with 12 volts going through them. Dodge loves that ceramic one, but our Chevys have it spliced into the wire from the ignition switch starting at that connector in the doghouse,,,by the carb and going towards the back . There is that 12 volt bypass wire that is going from the R terminal on the starter solenoid to the positive side of the coil and that resistor wire can connect to it at either end or in the middle of that bypass wire. HEI systems don't use that resistance wire it needs 12 volts. BUT,,,,you need to put a fusible link where the small wire connects to the big battery cable on the starter solenoid so it burns out instead of WHEN,,,,not IF,,,,a 1st Gen wiring shorts out,,,,,,2nd Gens have them,,,,kind of bolted to a little terminal on the inside of the doghouse,,,,,,
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Fri Aug 13, 2010 6:39 pm

    The GEN light uses a resistor under the dash, but that is just to test the bulb when you turn the key on and it has nothing to do with the one in the doghouse for the coil,,,,,,,
    RodStRace
    RodStRace


    Number of posts : 3046
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    Post by RodStRace Sat Aug 14, 2010 7:33 am

    The GEN light and resistor is so that when you turn the engine off, it will turn off. Otherwise, the charging system will feed the ignition and the engine keeps running.
    donivan65
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sat Aug 14, 2010 10:12 am

    Thats true,,,,,,you need a resistor in the #1 terminal line if you convert over to a 3 wire internal regulator alternator to prevent after run.
    66BC
    66BC


    Number of posts : 159
    Location : Los Angeles/ Thousand Oaks, CA.
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    Post by 66BC Sat Aug 14, 2010 4:47 pm

    Hopefully I have time to put the resistance wire in today and fit everything in place. I do want to upgrade distributitor and get rid of points and upgrade to alternator but for now I'm leaving it stock till I get some money together. When I do, what did you mean by needing a resistor i the #1 terminal line if converting to a 3 wire internal regulator alternator? Terminal on where, the alternator? ...and when converting to upgraded Distributor and alternator what are the best choices and fit for our vans if you could post them?
    donivan65
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sat Aug 14, 2010 6:48 pm

    Since we got talking about resistors, I brought up that one for the GEN light,,,,,Thats an important one to have IF you convert over to the 3 wire, GM, 3rd Gen internal regulated alternator. That alternator is one of the best in the world,,,,,,everybody uses them, and how to hook up that wire on the #1 terminal is the biggest problem,,,,,,,,I just put one on a Kubota Bobcat,,,,,So you are good to go for the upgrade,,,,,like it takes 15 minutes to convert over for the basic system,,,,,,plug that #4 regulator wire on the #1 terminal on the alternator,,,,hook the #2 terminal with the alternator output wire,,,,,,you done,,,,,and by moving that #2 wire around, you can vary the voltage to the battery. Get rid of that mechanical voltage regular and its wiring and actually charge the battery at idle. And as for the HEI distributor,,,,,,it needs 12 volts,,,,no resistor,,,,that connector by the carburetor has 12 volts coming into it, and the resistance wire coming out ,,,that will work for the HEI. So basically unplug that resistance wire out of the connector and plug the HEI one into it. And its a good idea to upgrade that wire from the ignition switch to at least a 12 gauge
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    ChevyVanMan1


    Number of posts : 425
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    Registration date : 2009-07-19

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    Post by ChevyVanMan1 Thu Sep 09, 2010 10:41 am

    Does anybody know how many Ohms of resistance the Gen Light needs to keep the engine from running on? Thanks!!!
    66BC
    66BC


    Number of posts : 159
    Location : Los Angeles/ Thousand Oaks, CA.
    Age : 45
    Registration date : 2010-01-05

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    Post by 66BC Mon Sep 13, 2010 9:25 pm

    Hey ChevyVanMan1, on the Chevy van shop manual Supplement under engine ellectrical it says that the field circuit resistance wire (connected to the ignition switch "ACC" terminal) is rated at 10 ohms, 6.25 watts minimum.
    back2thewoods
    back2thewoods


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    Post by back2thewoods Sat Jul 09, 2011 4:45 pm

    does anybody have a printable 64 wiring diagram, thanks
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    sparky


    Number of posts : 195
    Location : California!
    Registration date : 2010-01-05

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    Post by sparky Sat Jul 09, 2011 7:31 pm

    Hey Back to the woods, pm me your email addy and I can send you phone pics of my manual....its dated 1963, "chevy van shop manual supplement" must be fer 64
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    sparky


    Number of posts : 195
    Location : California!
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    Post by sparky Sat Jul 09, 2011 7:54 pm

    those are nice !!


    Last edited by sparky on Sat Jul 09, 2011 9:26 pm; edited 1 time in total
    DanTheVanMan
    DanTheVanMan
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    Post by DanTheVanMan Sat Jul 09, 2011 8:43 pm

    Maybe this will help......

    Dan

    Wiring The 66 Beach Cruiser 1st_ge10Wiring The 66 Beach Cruiser 1st_ge11


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    back2thewoods
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    Post by back2thewoods Sun Jul 10, 2011 8:34 am

    got it dan, thanks guys

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