What Do you Think ??????

What did you use to attach it to the ceilling? Spray adhesive?

im thinking of rubberized bedliner type material. Sprayed/rolled directly to the wall,ceiling,floor should allow for great rust protction and flexibilty to help keep cracks from forming. If your going to panel, then that and the 1/2" foil barrier attached to the added panels should dampen sound and temps. Small Interior vents on top and bottom off panels/walls and each side on ceilings would allow for any moister to evaporate.
JUST AN OPINION....

wacko wrote:What did you use to attach it to the ceilling? Spray adhesive?

This is 'Awesome" stuff !!!
And you can get it at Lowes or Home Depot....
Just spray both wall and foam, wait about 3-5 min and stick- on. Just make sure your foam is cut to exact size and you put it on perfect! Once it fully dries, is there for good!




Dan

I just had a customer of mine(who shall remain nameless) give me some self adhesive 4x8 sheets of insulation foam used on the inside of industrial generator cabinets to deaden sound. I have enuf to do 2 whole vans in 1/2 inch,1 inch,and 2 inch thicknesses. Just peel off the backing and stick it on. Its got a black film coating on the opposite side. Price is definitey right,dont know about R value but its pretty dense stuff. Then again, Im not paying a HVAC bill for a furnace system running inside my van either so R value isnt super important to me. Sound deadening definitely is.

DanTheVanMan wrote:
This is 'Awesome" stuff !!!
And you can get it at Lowes or Home Depot....
Just spray both wall and foam, wait about 3-5 min and stick- on. Just make sure your foam is cut to exact size and you put it on perfect! Once it fully dries, is there for good!




Dan

Thanks Dan,

I will check it out

Just my two cents on this topic. I know back in the day they had used a spray foam on the inside walls and ceiling. This was the thing to do and what I chose to do to my 78 Chevy C20 Nomad Van before putting a custom interior in it. I've no idea if there are places around today that does this type of spray foam but would be what I would do again if I was customizing one again. Scott...

from an aicraft perspective, insulation always causes a corrosive environment. the fibres of anything will capture moisture and then hold it untill heat builds up. then it gets released and tries to attack the structure galvanically. its worse when its soaked with urine and feces. ask me how i know this... its best to let the water out as fast as it can leave. lots of drain holes.

I am going to use this stuff called peal and stick it is very much like the original dinomate but a lot lot lot cheaper. You can find it in the roofing section of your local hardware store.

steve wrote: its worse when its soaked with urine and feces. ask me how i know this...

Well, I'm askin'. How do you know this?

I just finished reading this thread and I thought from the start that the spray on foam would be a good option. Don't know if it holds moisture. I wil say that we built a house a few years ago and they sprayed the entire interior roof of my attic with the foam. It really stays pretty cool compared to most attics I've entered. Even the humidity levels in the summer are far less. If I run a dehumifier, it does fill up quickly, but that's just an attic.

Using Dynamat all around would be very expensive. I am curious to ask NipRing if he notices any great sound deafening affect from using it. I belive the van he purchased was lined along the entire interior with a small fortune in Dynamat.

Digz wrote:That is similar to what we put under the concrete floor at the pit shop, The double bubble foil has an R value of 5 and replaces an inch of styrofoam, the floor stuff has a layer of poly on it like a very thin tarp, is only a 1/2 inch thick, Id be tempted to adhere it to the inside of any panels that go up insted of the metal. I dont know if they have small rolls of that tho, maybe check with a builder to see if they would have any left overs.

The stuff that Fred was talking about is the same stuff I did my doghouse with, and the same stuff I'm talking about for interior panels, exactly like Digz is saying. The stuff I bought is only about a 1/4" thick, so I think that would be great backing an interior panel right against the ribs!

Then, for sound deadening, I think a few dabs of expanding foam between ribs and exterior sheet metal, and rubberized undercoating or a few of the roofing panels (asphalt?) stuck to the large wobbly panels. That will be my choice!

Just some food for thought on spray foam. There have been quite a few potato farmers around here who have torn down and rebuilt storages. I want to say about 20 years ago it seemed like a great deal to cover the interiors of these structures with spray on foam. What they have discovered is like what Steve said. It corrodes away from the inside out resulting in roof cave ins and also rotting away wood support structure that was in contact with the steel. On mine I found that just putting a padded interior in resulted in major sound and heat reductions. But I dont live in a high temp zone either. The stuff I used on my DH is working out great! 1/2" thick glass mat with a foil side, 3m adhesive on a clean surface and I have had no fall offs. You used to be able to cook an egg on the top and now it only warms up when Im doing stop and go traffic stuff and the area by the headers probably saw a 75% reduction in heat transfer.

I'm going with dynomat or something similar just for noise control. When I put the interior panels in they will more than likely be covered with black "speaker carpet" and that's about all the insulation I'm going to do. It's too humid and hot in GA to risk trapping moisture anywhere so I'll still have some hidden vent holes in the panels.

Fatmat or dynomat but first spray it with Body Armor. The Body Armor will prevent rust and act as a sound deadener

As most of you already no...when I pulled the PO interior out of my 66, I found it to be stuffed...and I meen stuffed full of styrofoam insulation. The walls, the roof, the doors. This person cut little pieces and put this stuff in like a puzzle, it was sculpded. There was no open air from roof to floor. Now the only place that shows rust is anywhere 2 pieces of mettle have been touching. Roof ribs inside and the wall ribs against outer skin. It also appears to have had an effect on the seam sealer that glues all these ribs to the outer skins, most of it has let go. But man did that van sound solid. If I was to repeat what this person did I would put some kind of plastic spacer strips in behind the insulation to hold it away from the walls so that air could circulate, maybe even some kind of vent strip top and bottom the full lentgh of the van. I also found that whoever did this interior, had autographed one of the boards and it was done in july of 1976. So in 35 years that's all I could find for rust issues. just food for thought on the styrofoam. And I no that the paneling that was used matches my house trailer and it was made in 73ish...lol.

Back in the 70s we used R15 fiberglass insulation and after seven years there was no rust in my A100 interior walls. Probably because it stays pretty warm here most of the year and dry

No expert on this but from what I have read on marine or boat repair you can't or should not use spray foam because it is not a "closed cell foam" and will hold moisture. If I were to go with a foam I would look for something meant for a marine application.

there are 2 types. open and closed cell. We are using the closed cell in the 67 e. it is recommended to use closec cell because it acts like a barrier and wont attract moisture. Not sure about condensation issues but from what we understand is it wont be between the metal and foam.

I'm going to use magnets. I bought the roll of shiny bubble insulation, some metal tape, and some little round magnets at Home Depot. I figure I'll just tape the magnets onto the corners of the insulation pieces. This way, they'll stay on when I want them to, but are removable so I can check for rust. I tried 3M adhesive spray but the ceiling pieces and one of the wall pieces came right off when it got hot outside. I'm also going to use magnets for the curtains. Photos to follow! I ought to mention though that I plan on having an independent heat source in my van so no need for heavy duty insulation.

I've only started for the most part but instead of Dinamat I found ProtectoWrap (WAY cheaper) that as far as I can tell the only difference is it doesn't have the reflective backing. It woks great for sound deadening and sticks very well, I covered the outside of the doghouse to see how it will stand up to heat and even on the exhaust side it only gets a little soft. Hasn't fell off or melted or become brittle. This comes in a roll and you cut it how you want it, peel the backing paper off and when it sticks it STAYS.

Where can a person get this protectoWrap from? How much for a roll? and how big a roll?

ProtectoWrap.com They have multiple products including their own "audio wrap". I used the BT25XL, I got it at Home-Depo. The 12" tall by 75' long roll was about $50.

I plan on por 15 or rust bullet on my walls (also my entire floor) then using fatmat

I would use the por 15 or a bed liner type coating and
then use the closed cell foam board unsulation applied to
the back side of the paneling not applied to the metal
surface, using consruction adhesive or the 3m spray contact
adhesive, allowing an air gap at the steel allowing it
to breathe. just my 2 cents.

I have been doing some research on sound deadening for my van. After stumbling upon this site, it has opened my eyes as to what needs to be done. Read through and enjoy.

www.sounddeadenershowdown.com