electrical/heat issues, maybe???

MAybe someone knows what's up with this situation. I replaced my starter, battery, cables and alternator. Van runs like a champ...until it gets good and warmed up and I turn it off. then it doesn't want to start....or even make any sounds like the starter is even getting the message. It happened again today, at the gas station. I pumped the gas and hopped back in...nothing. There's power at the switch...lights, gauges, etc. Just no start up action at all. I sat there and let it get cooled down to about 190, then it fired right up, no problem. Any idea what's goin on?

thanks.

They used to sell a "HIGH HEAT" starter. Used them with headers and other hotter applications.

Seems they still should sell them.

This is what I used to rid myself of the same problem and have been totally satisfied! This is a great price as I paid somewhere in the vicinity of $200 when I bought mine years back!!
http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/Items/Item.aspx?SKU=SDR0031+/+PM300+-+6562&caSKU=SDR0031+/+PM300+-+6562&caTitle=NEW+Chevy+305+350+454+Mini+Racing+PMGR+Starter+HT+PM300+SDR0031

First of...thanks everyone for the help!

O.k....so, BvrWally, is the one you linked the exact one needed for say a 250? Also...what makes this one solve the issues?

Next...you think AutoZone would take back the one I just bought, and installed, last week?

Well mine is installed on a V-8 327 but I believe they fit either make of engine? I think Auto zone should take it back, provided you kept the receipt? I'd explain to them that it just did not work with the engine compartment heat issue. These starters are designed for the strip and engines with headers which heat up everything under our type of vans. I love mine! I went through @ 6 starters till I located the "Heat Soak" issue from an old drag racer friend! I then purchased this starter and never had a problem again, and that has been 20 years ago! There listing (DB Electrical)doesn't say anything about 6 cylinder applications, but I'd give them a call at 800-753-2242 and ask them about it!
B.W.

Thanks, I'll call 'em for sure!

So...were the old starters just built better and able to avoid this issue when they were newer?

I did not have any problems at all....UNTIL I "Introduced" Headers into the picture!!! Their heat alone, started me on the road to learning to change starters at a regular interval!!!!! I carried spares with me at all times, until I finally figured out the problem! Hot starts were out of the question! "Playing it Forward".....I was at a local Swap Meet in Canfield, Ohio years back, and there was this Awesome 40 Ford with a 350 in it. The guy was trying to start it for someone that was interested in purchasing it. Well He had just started it a little bit earlier. When he went to start it the second time, no luck. He was dumbfounded? I walked over and saw the headers, I said to him;" Either get a mini-torque starter, or place a "Heat Shield" on your starter". The starter has Heat Soak! He was very greatfull as he was stupified as to what was causing his problem??? lol
B.W.

Look about middle of page-------->

HOT START/BUMP
START SOLENOID KIT

http://www.fastpts.com/hazel-doc/taylor.html

CHEAP SOLUTION........

Assuming your starter is in good shape, the problem is with the old factory wiring. The factory wires were small to begin with, and also it was a bad design by GM. When the wires get hot, the resistance increases. The starter requires more power than the wires can move through them when they are hot. The solution is to re-wire the starter circuit with a Ford style starter solenoid (or relay, if you prefer to call it that). The stock wiring now only activates the Solenoid/relay, and all the juice goes through the Relay, not through the weak/small stock wiring anymore. I just went through this on a '67 Firebird.

rewire the starter cicuit as shown here:

either like this:



or like this with a jumper wire on the starter:



Both ways of wiring will work.

I used the top style wiring because on the firebird we have a trick aftermarket starter with a permanent magnet that can be damaged by running a jumper wire and shorting the 'S" post to the main batt post on the starter. On a usual style factory start, you can do this no problem (the 2nd diagram) and then you have only one large wire going down to the starter.

Either way, use heavy gauge wires and solder all connections. This will cure all starter 'heat soak' problems! I got the Ford Solenoid/Relay from the Local NAPA. I asked for a starter Solenoid for an older Ford mustang or truck... something that would have had points on it. Ask for the Echlin brand, its more expensive, about $22 but it is made in USA and is a quality product.

Note: the "I" terminal on the ford solenoid and also on the GM starter is used to provide full 12 volts to the coil during starting. This wire is not required if you have eliminated your old points systems and converted to HEI.

What I liked about the link I posted was the starter solinoid had a nice "bump start" button on it (built in).

An added perk for tune ups and such.

Guess that V8 rad in mine hooked to the six banger keeps mine from having over heat issues.

Actually............I've never had this problem with any Ford or Chevy van I ever had.
hmmmmmmmmmmm............
LUCKY???????
OR ??????????

Thanks, everyone, for the help. I'm gonna jump on this info early next week. I'll let y'all know how it goes.

Well...the heat shield didn't do anything positive. In fact, today, I had more issues when I took the van out for a long drive. It did it's usual thing the first time I let it sit after driving it for a bit. THEN, it made some crazy noise, from the solenoid. We got it jumped, but it's dead in the driveway. Maybe the regulator? I'm gonna replace that AND the coil...that should round out the electrical system. We're (my buddy Eric and myself) also gonna run the bump start situation. Gonna get a new, bigger radiator, too. I was hoping to start workin on the external appearances of the van, but it looks like I'm just gonna work on the engine, then get the interior squared away...............

will do...thanks.

yeah Scott, that looks just like the one I used... the one I bought says "made in USA" stamped right into it, and I sure like using parts made in America if I can get them. Your local Napa counter guy may be able to get you a little better price, so its worth asking. He gave me a military discount, but I know they can do other discounts as well...