Engine & Transmission matches ?

Another question from a newby. I have a 65 Truck with a manual three speed, I just picked up a 200 engine with the big bell housing. What all will I need to plant this in the truck ? or should I keep looking for earlier engine ?

By what I've gathered(I'm new here too) I'd be doing a 240 or 300 swap can get a lot of hp out of them and the parts availability is endless..

You have a REAL good combo available with that bell housing. Yours would also be the better and later year 200 with both bell housing patterns on it. Two advantages of that motor are firstly a bigger log on the intake manifold but also that you can use the larger clutch with a flat flywheel. Also even better is that you can use the 3spd over drive that will bolt up and give you a manual over drive unit. You would have to use an under transmission cross member though as no tail stock that will bolt into your 65. Years ago, Eugene Phillips was said to have made a special output shaft and adapted on but have never seen it. The other option would be simply use your existing small bell and clutch setup.
The 200 IS A SWEET running motor and far less carb percolating issues than the 240/300 option has. You didnt mention WHICH rear end you have? If you have the small rear end, then changing and matching the gearing to what you want is an issue because you need to rebuild it in order to change gearing. If you have the stronger 9" rear axle with the larger brakes also, its as easy as changing the third member gear set...
vic

Thanks for the replys, next question is can I gain anything in airflow by replacing the head that came on the 200 with a 250 ?

Gotta run,, but,,,,,,, LOL..    I am very impressed with the valve size and more importantly the intake log size on a 250.  The only issue that needs to be solved using one is the loss of compression. However from all the threads that I have been following, it is as simple as milling the head surface down more than usual. No issues with thin head gasket surfaces and so on.  IF I WERE to build a 200,,, I would seriously look into the Weber two stage and a set of headers,,, and MOST IMPORTANTLY TO USE ADJUSTABLE ROCKERS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have posted many, many, many times of why,,, for right now,, will just say that you CANNOT ever get the valves exactly correct using the non adjustable rockers!!!!!!!! It cannot happen....
A 200 with a Weber, a 250 head, and headers is one sweet little motor and real sleeper..
vic


Here is a cross flow one I helped build,, NASTY,,,,,

OK Ive commited , took the head off the 200 and dropped it off at the shop. I got the enginee out of an 83 Zephyr that had been hit in the nose. They will clean, magniflux and give it back to me without valves springs, etc. so I can clean up the exhaust ports and the log intake manifold. I hope I can get it done in a week of steady grinding and polishing. When I took it to the Head shop they looked it up and said it looks to them like the heads were the same on the last run of 200's and 250's in 83, as far as valve size and combustion chamber size. God the exhaust valves are huge. Anyway while it is there I will dismantle the bottom end so I can get the block decked. Engine had 81K on it and looks it inside. Now which transmission ? any suggestions are appreciated.

what rear end ratio?? if 3:70-4:11=?? use an aod!!

I have the 9 inch, 3.00 rear end if this helps in making a choice

C-4 or 6
high ratio!!

C4, C6 and manuals all have same final gear,, so makes no difference there.. C6 has a 15% parasitic loss over a C4 and NO tail stock that will bolt into ours, although there are two solid output short tail stocks with under transmission mounts available for the C6.
If yours is a pickup you may very well get away with 3:00's but think you may enjoy 3:25's a bit better, as from all the work I know you will be itching to smash that gas pedal once in a while..LOL
At this point, I would HIGHLY suggest using adjustable rockers,, ESPECIALLY as you are milling the block and the head. When they do a valve job on a non adjustable rocker head, they use a go/no go gauge to tip the end of the valve so that it (supposed to?) ha,ha,, set the plunger in the lifter so that it is in its adjustment range,,,,,,,,,,,, good luck!!!!! IT CANNOT adjust them exactly where they need to be!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! its impossible......
Using adjustable rockers allows you to put them EXACTLY where they need to be,,,,, ask your valve job person he SHOULD know what I am talking about.. I have two complete sets here if you are interested,,,,
vic

OK with all the response I seem to be getting a little bit behind, anyway on the adjustable valve train can I use the one off the 170 which I will be pulling ? or should I buy a new assembly ?

Yes,, if you have an adjustable rocker set on your 170, DEFINETELY use it!!! Use it and its matching pushrods. I adjust them right around 3/4 turn. Book calls for 1 1/2,, one of the reasons is to keep them on the light side of the adjustment range in case the lifters get tempermental, and also its a left over for me as an old racers trick. IF you were to over rev by accident some day,, LOL..... that means that the lifter can only pump up and hold the valve open the 3/4 turn,, if you were to do that using the 1 1/2 turns, you are more likely to hit a piston and bend a push rod or valve.
Using the adjustable rockers allows you to compensate for the material removed from milling a block, a head, worn cam lobes and lifters, and the height of the valve and also its thickness. The go/no go gauge that a machine shop uses to tip the end of your valves cannot accomodate for those varables and is only A GUESTEMATE... to try and set the adjustment.. it is IMPOSSIBLE for a non adjustable rocker to set the plunger in the lifter EXACTLY where it needs to be...
Vic

Thanks Old School, I've been out of cars for the past 40 + years, now playing again. Any other recommendations would be really appreciated, OLD SAYING I don't need to re-invent the wheel.