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BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER.... A's, G's & E's


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    ndjarrett
    ndjarrett


    Number of posts : 357
    Location : Memphis
    Registration date : 2011-05-01

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    Post by ndjarrett Sun Feb 03, 2013 2:53 pm

    Now is where I show my stupidity...LOL. OK, I pulled the gas tank cleaned all the rust & gunk out and patched and sealed it (Por15 kit). Put it back in and bent all new gas lines to the engine. Put in new gas pump. All the works...I get plenty of gas to the carb now. I also replaced the Distrib cap & rotor & plug wires (dude I bought from did the make-it-yourself wires & plugs only). I also replaced the points & condensor & vacuum advance in the distrib. All this becasue it ran like crap before. LMAO...it still runs like crap now. I have the proper firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4. I wired it just like he had it on the cap...just like the diagram in Chilton's shows. I even had the rotor point the same as when I took it out. When I try starting with it in the original position (how it was)...
    DOH! HELP! Cimg2410
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    ...how I put it...
    DOH! HELP! Imag0012
    ...how I have to turn it to get it to start and run like crap...
    DOH! HELP! Imag0013
    So, wtf am I doin wrong? I did notice the vacuum tube coming off the carb is very jiggly and moves in and out some where it is bolted on...which is what the distrib vacuum advance connects to. Dunno if that is really a prob or not.

    Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I never acquired the knack for tuning much more than turning the distrib to get it running then mess with a timing gun.
    donivan65
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sun Feb 03, 2013 4:23 pm

    1st thing is that the points need to be set at .019 , then you adjust the timing to 6 degrees before top dead center,,,,,then you spray some carb cleaner down inside the carburetor,,,,,,if the engine runs better,,,,,we start talking carburetor,,,,,,,
    ndjarrett
    ndjarrett


    Number of posts : 357
    Location : Memphis
    Registration date : 2011-05-01

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    Post by ndjarrett Sun Feb 03, 2013 4:39 pm

    If I did it right...the points r set to .019 like Chilton's said (I had the little bumper thing sitting at the highest point of the corner on the nut that bumps it). SO, If I remember rightly...when I find TDC...I just make my #1 plug hole on the cap sit over where the rotor is pointing (which, depending on where that would put my vacuum adv means I might actually hafta pick a different hole altogether thatn the other dude was using)?
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sun Feb 03, 2013 5:01 pm

    When the harmonic balancer notch is pointing to 0,,,,,the rotor in the distributor has to point to #1 or #6 spark plug hole in the cap,,,,so if you took the distributor out, you need to get it back in correctly,,,,,now if it starts, then it is probably right,,,,,now if it does not run right, you twist the distributor until you get it to run the best you can,,,,if the vacuum advance hits,,,,move all the wires over 1 hole either way and try again,,,,if it still does not run right,,,,spray the carburetor,,,see if it gets better,,,,,find some clues,,,,see what makes a difference, then we can dial in what to do instead of writing 10 pages about what MIGHT be the problem,,,,,
    ndjarrett
    ndjarrett


    Number of posts : 357
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    Post by ndjarrett Sun Feb 03, 2013 5:07 pm

    OK...LOL...will play with it more tomorrow I hope. I put the distrib back in like it was. Did turn it and get it to run. So I will fart with it some more. If it is the carb...what's the best one to buy (Rochester, Carter, other)? I think mines a Rochester Monojet.
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sun Feb 03, 2013 6:17 pm

    Because of the oil pump and cam gear, you kinda have to move the rotor 1 hole to the left before you put the distributor back in,,,,,so when the distributer finally goes in all the way, the rotor points to the hole you started off with,,,,,if you don't do it that way,,,,you are probably off by 1/2 a hole which you would have to twist the distributor a 1/2 a hole,,,unless the vacuum advance hits the doghouse or engine when you try to do it,,,,,you seem to blame all your problems on the distributor,,,,,did it run bad before you messed with the distributor,,,,if it ran bad before, I would be looking at the carburetor,,,,,and you start by spraying down inside of it while it is running,,,,if it runs better, then we start checking for vacuum leaks,,,,,replacing the carb is the last step,,,,,you need to check all the fittings and gaskets 1st,,,,,,,but get us some evidence,,,,,
    ndjarrett
    ndjarrett


    Number of posts : 357
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    Post by ndjarrett Wed Feb 06, 2013 4:15 pm

    Got tdc. Rearranged my plug wires. Replaced what looked like window wiper tubes that were being used on vac adv. Run fairly good for a couple of minutes...then started running like crap. It seems like the Carb fills with gas but won't barely pump it out? It was leaking between the bottom section and the middle. When I took it off gas gas in the line literally sprayed out initially...not what I am used to. It was supposedly rebuilt before and when I cracked it open it looked like jet an copper screw in piece it sits in were brand new. But, also a much smaller jet looking piece fell out and I'm not sure what it came from. Starter fluid did make it run better when it started action crappy.
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    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Wed Feb 06, 2013 7:31 pm

    ,,,,you got my favorite carb,,,,a Carter YF,,,,,The pump discharge check needle, #35, goes in a hole next to the bowl vent spring that does not have screw threads in it,,,,,,look at the lower bowl gasket.. see if it is good,,,,,,did you try adjusting the mixture screw,,,,,there should not be gas leaking out the sides of the carb or any gas sitting down inside the carb when it is off,,,,,the next test is spraying down inside the carb when it is running,,,,that should kill the engine,,,,,if it runs better, spray the outside and intake manifold to see if you find a bad spot that makes the engine run better,,,


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    ndjarrett
    ndjarrett


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    Post by ndjarrett Wed Feb 06, 2013 8:00 pm

    Dude what r those xtra peices below the jet #9? Mine don't have them. Also I played with it more after dinner and notice my jet sticks. It does not always drop back down when the float does.
    ndjarrett
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    Post by ndjarrett Wed Feb 06, 2013 8:02 pm

    I also don't have #29. And it was Full of gas when I took it off.
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Wed Feb 06, 2013 8:17 pm

    Not all the Carters are exactly the same,,,#29 is a baffle, not all of them have them or get put back in,,,,your needle and seat could be different,,,,there will be a gasket, and a seat, but the needle could be 1 piece, 2 or 3 pieces,or even a ball bearing type,,,,and fuel pressure pushes the needle down to let in gas and the float rises to shut it off,,,,,,
    ndjarrett
    ndjarrett


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    Post by ndjarrett Wed Feb 06, 2013 8:50 pm

    Figured as much. I can see the slot for the baffle so it used to have one. Makes no diff in how it works? The prev owner had run it with the rusty nasty tank before deciding to reb the carb and adding a filter ( filter on fuel send was nonexistent). Wonder if anything's clogged? What would I do to check...run small wire into all holes?
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Wed Feb 06, 2013 9:20 pm

    I would put the carb back together and run it,,,,,,the whole idea is that the spark plugs need a certain mixture of air and gas to fire,,,,too much air is called a LEAN condition,,,,so you spray some more fuel, like carb cleaner, and if the engine runs better, it is running LEAN,,,,and there are certain things to check to find out why,,,,,If you can see gas inside or outside the carb or it is puffing out black smoke from the tail pipe, , , it is running RICH, and there are different things to check to figure out why,,,,,in my World, I try and isolate the problem, then go and fix it. I don't like to type or write out the whole shop manual,,,,, so find out if you are Rich or Lean,,,,,or if it is none of those, THEN we go mess with the distributor....
    ndjarrett
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    Post by ndjarrett Fri Feb 08, 2013 4:18 pm

    I am rebuilding the carb. Based on Fig A & Fig B of the kit my float was barely moving. Here is my Q...if I read Fig D rightly, then I need to bend the peice (red arrow below) that holds my metering rod? When the diaphragm is fully depressed, I can still push my metering rod a good 1/8 inch, or more, before it bottoms out.
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    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Fri Feb 08, 2013 5:07 pm

    There are 2 adjustments there,,,,,1st you need to be sure the throttle plate is closed and not being held open by the fast idle cam or RPM screw,,,,you push and hold, the pump shaft down, then you go outside and bend that u shaped rod that is screwed onto the end of the throttle shaft to adjust any clearance that might be between the 2 springs on the pump shaft,,,like that metering rod arm should touch that washer when you push the top of the pump shaft down......that arrow section always is going to be up like that.....and while you are pushing that pump shaft down,,,,,the metering rod should also be bottomed out,,,,or be able to slide off its shaft if its little spring was not holding it in place,,,,and to adjust it, you bend its whole shaft area up or down so the metering rod sits bottomed out into its jet, while the pump shaft is being pushed down.....the accelerator pump is vacuum operated,,,,if that diaphragm leaks the engine runs rich.... the settings are kind of level or flat ,,,,the float should be level when you flip it upside down and also should just hang down about 1 1/4",,,,,so these are some of the settings for that carb.....
    ndjarrett
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    Post by ndjarrett Sun Feb 10, 2013 2:34 pm

    Hell with it! Thanks for all your help, it is much appreciated. But, this carb just doesn't want to work. Got it all back together like you and the rebuild kit said. The van ran almost perfect...for about 2 or 3 minutes. Then, just like before, it starts running like shit and dies and won;t start again for quite a while. Gas is leaking out of it again (despite my new screws, and yes I got them tight). And afterwards you can see gas trickling down the inside of it for a while. I think I will just buy a new one and be done with it..
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    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sun Feb 10, 2013 7:22 pm

    Now we are getting somewhere,,,,it definitely is not running lean,,,,,to you that means get a new carb, to me,,,that means the float might be full of gas, the wrong needle or seat,,,,hanging up,,,,,or the pump diaphram not sealing because it has a hole in it or the cover is warped or the main jet has been tightened too much and has cracked the body.....did you set the float for 7/16" Did you use the right lower bowl gasket?
    ndjarrett
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    Post by ndjarrett Sun Feb 10, 2013 8:40 pm

    The instructions called for 7/32 on Fig A and 1 1/4 on Fig B. That's what I set...the original setting were like 3/4 and 1...barely moved at all. I used the same gasket as it had...and hosnestly the only one of the three supplied that looked like a good matches anyway. I don't think the float is full of gas...I submerged in water before and saw no bubbles like it was leaking. Could be warped...who knows...some of the screws it had in it were carpentry screws and would not tighten...which is why I got the ones you see in the pics. I did not notice any cracks...but who knows.
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sun Feb 10, 2013 9:34 pm

    There are a couple of YF carbs and kits,,,,when you tipped the top over to set the float, was it level, not all bent down to 7/32" ? and did you check for air bubbles by holding the float under water and softly squeezing it to see if bubbles come out of it,,,,,,


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    Gothboy
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    Post by Gothboy Mon Feb 11, 2013 6:04 am

    Im with Don on this one. Pinholed floats are a BASTAGE to diagnose. Not very common, but common enough to warrant maybe checking again?
    ndjarrett
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    Post by ndjarrett Mon Feb 11, 2013 6:15 am

    No, I did not squeeze it...lol. Maybe I will try again. Mine is the low vent...but you probably saw that in my pics above. And, it had the bigger 9/16 jet parts in it so that's what I put back in. And, yes, I bent the tabs at the end of the float to let it be 7/32...not perfectly level when upside down.
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Mon Feb 11, 2013 9:24 am

    Level is a good setting,,,,,if your carb is flooding, the float could be too high, which is the SMALL setting,,,,,this requires that more gas be let in to push the float up to close the needle,,,,,so bend if it lets you,,,,sometimes the pieces get switched and even if you set the float correctly,,,,it just don't look right because the pieces are wrong......the float, needle, top bowl cover and seat are a matched set.....
    ndjarrett
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    Post by ndjarrett Wed Feb 20, 2013 5:41 pm

    I gave up on the old Carb...lol. just put new one on today and MAN what a difference it makes. Now I just gotta play with the mix so it don't blow black smoke when I get on it. Very Happy

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