by RodStRace Wed Oct 17, 2012 8:01 am
The 10-15K is the great sobering effect.
Here is my suggestion for you to understand what a full body/paint is going to cost. Figure what it would take to remove every trim piece. Probably at least 2-4 hours. Are you going to remove the glass and replace the seals? Add another couple hours. Remember to double the time because there is installation on fresh paint.
Walk around the entire vehicle slowly. With a pencil, circle every spot that needs work. Go around again. Now open the doors and tailgate and check the hinges and the jambs. More circles. Feel each corner and the front and rear pans. Again circle each spot that needs work.
Figure on an hour or 2 per 8" circle. That's grinding it down, doing any metal work, skim of filler, prime. On my van, it ended up being averaging about 8 hours a panel. Add it all up. Don't forget that the shop does not know what's under that top coat, so they may want to sand or strip the whole thing down, which will almost always find new things to fix. It's also many hours, depending on what's on it.
Now add a full masking and prime. Figure 4 hours. Then a full blocking. Probably a couple days if they are on it (16 hours). At this point, it's going to be a lot better, but the shop and you will see more stuff that needs to be fixed to really make it right. This means another round of priming and blocking at least, it will probably need some more filler. Add another 8 hours for the filler and the 4 hours for priming and the 16 hours for blocking.
Now it's ready for paint. A full cleaning, mask and shooting. Will the jambs be done? More of the same.
This is all with NO rust or past damage cutout and weld in, no big panel adjustments, and no hinge or modification repairs.
For a pro shop, they are not going to use cheap paint after all this labor. Figure at least 1-2K in materials, including the sandpaper, filer, primer and paint.
So now it's all shiny. Remember the strip down times? Time to put it back together, hopefully with new seals.
Any shop that does this kind of work knows there are hidden problems on every car and boost the basic quote so that you don't get a huge shock half way in.
Another thing to really consider is the type of shop and their reputation.
A typical 'production' shop that handles most or all late-model insurance jobs does not want your full resto.
To use an analogy, they would rather read 50 paperbacks than your encyclopedia. Easier to deal with, takes less time and pays easier.
So that leaves the real restoration shops or the 'on the side' guys. There are a lot of 'paint jail' horror stories. Research the candidates carefully, including if the same people are working there. Unless you have fresh chrome, seals, upholstery and trim, you probably aren't really ready to drop off your van right now. Follow the shop and see how well they meet deadlines, quotes, and the type of work they turn out. This is more important than price!
If your van ends up getting part way done and stalling, you will have to fight to get it back, lose most or all of the money already paid and then try to find another shop to take over. Good Luck with that!