Fuel Tanks

I discovered yesterday that the inside of my tank was in pretty bad shape with a few pin holes. The combination of sitting for for 30 years with fuel that turned to varnish and then going dry really did some damage. I considered flushing and then soldering...also considered cutting a section out to allow access to clean and then solder/braze/weld (would have to research best method) a fresh panel in. Very hard to justify all of that and having it done at a shop runs upwards of $150. No doubt that I couldn't do any of it but is it really worth it....

So I am seeking a solution for us A100 owners that have/will run into this problem. I'm doing some research with fuel cells and have found that there are ALOT of them on the market that are very close to our stock diamentions... at a very reasonable price. There are 2 choices... poly and aluminum and pretty much all of them come with sending units.

There are a few obsticles that we have to deal with...inlet location and fuel gauge are 2 of them. Then there there are fuel line/breather locations and mounting but I consider those very minor for anyone with some mechanical experience. A tray will more than likely have to be fabricated for the poly tank to rest on but it would be nice to find a tank that could simply use the factory mounting strap...thats why I'll more than likely use aluminum, so tabs can be welded in place for the factory strap to run in place and not let the tank wiggle (may add cross straping as a safety factor). I can also weld runners across the top so it can be spaced down to clear the fuel sending unit and return/breather lines.

I believe an inlet can be welded/bolted in the correct position leaving the stock cell filler in place, unused on the top. Using stock diamentions, the inlet is 3" from the end and 4" from the bottom but that will change once the tank size changes. The inlet will have to be determined once the tank has been test fit.

Probably the one thing that has me unsure is the fuel sending unit. Most aftermarkets operate at 0-90 ohm for the signal. I can't find anywhere what our As use for a signal. I guess I'll have to cross that bridge when I come to it.

So this is where I am at...all input is greatly appreciated and hopefully I can come up with a solution to a problem that haunts so many of us. When you consider the cost of a fuel tank repair and a new sending unit (over $200 combined) this may be the best solution since I have seen fuel cells sell for 25-50% less NEW with sending units

Ok, short story time. Talked to a guy who needed an A100 gas tank , with mods a Jeep Cherokee 1999 fuel tank will work with mods. Its plastic, poly, whatever todays standard. Mrs. Benwah has one only Im not allowd to rip it out of her Jeep and install in one of my A's. Grand Cherokee is diffrent from what Im told.

I saw that comment made in another post...

Problem is that finding that particular gas tank can be pretty difficult as well.

I believe I've solved the gauge problem for the fuel cell. The standard unit with the fuel cells are 0-90 ohm (0=empty-90=full) and I've found that our As/most Dodges, operate at 75-10 ohms (75= empty-10=full). I see that a few companys offer an adustable 6-12" 75-10 ohm (actually for Ford) units with what appears to be the same screw pattern as the cells. JC Whitney is the cheapest @ $22.00.

This unit could be uses in the Jeep Tanks as well if you were to cut the hole in the top for it.

dont know if this will help but: i work at a jeep (former jeep) dealership, the part number your looking at is 52100179ad fits late 98-01 xj (cherokee) will not fit grand!!!! chrysler list price $518.00 (go used) the fuel pump hole is going to be an issue, aftermarket "streetrod" type senders usually have a small mounting plate 2 1/2 -3 1/2 dia. the jeep fuel pump for this tank is roughly 4 1/2 with a locking ring. you'll need to fab an adapter plate, no big deal, then figure out what to do for the filler jeep is out the top, i believe the my A is out the side, (dont hold me to that, i'm running on memory on that) but its an plastic tank, a good body should have a plastic welder.

i also needed a tank and could not find anything reasonably priced. bought a 10 gallon poly (plastic) tank from speedway motors. looks just like a spun aluminum dune buggie tank except plastic. no place for sending unit but i have a new tank that will not rust and comes with mounting brackets for $80.00.

With the pick-up, you can eliminate the outside filler and move it to on top of the filler enclosure box.

I have a jeep tank in the garage and I'll take some pics tomorrow for you. One problem is the current location of the sending unit is opposite of ours.

Location of the sending unit shoudn't be a probem...Hopefully the Jeep gauge operates using the same Ohms that our trucks use. It would be simple to just relocate the wiring

I measured the jeep tank I have.
It is 32 5/8 x 21 vs our a100 at 30 5/8 x 20, the vent would work, the filler is at the left top and there is not room on the back to add one of our a100 sending units. I will have my son help me try and put it in the 67' pickup and see how it fits.

Seems that I have stumbled across a few tanks out of later model "A"s that are 2 strap tanks...will they work in the '64 single strap location?

My single strap tank has very small indentions on the edges for the strap so I don't see why you couldn't make them with a hammer if you can find a double strap tank. I'll check the frame of my '67 tomorrow to see if it has the slots for a double strap as well as the single.

#1 there is a crossmember in the way of the sending unit that needs to be moved or modified, shorten fuel line, reroute/lengthen fuel sending unit wire.
#2 add new filler neck in our current location
#3 weld up stock filler opening, vent lines up perfect.
#4 our mounting straps will work.