67 throttle cable in a 61 epup with 302

Hey guys. I have a 61 epup with the 302 that I have been working on. I have the 67 throttle cable to put on it but not sure how the bracket goes on any help would be appreciated thanks

Vic (OldSkool) on this site, is an Econoline guru as well as Duane (Econopoor). You can PM them to see if they can offer you some advice or pics because they are very busy. You can also use the Search tab at the top of the page and type "throttle" to pull up some threads on the subject...

Here's a couple I found but there are many to look at...

https://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t44910-throttle-linkage?highlight=throttle

https://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t55665-throttle-return-spring?highlight=throttle

Hope this helps!

Bracket at the pedal end or the carb end?

It's the bracket under the floor that connect the pedal to the throttle cable.
Thanks for any help.

Hope this helps...

Cool graphic that shows that despite pivoting from the heel just like a gvan, Ford has the linkage pushing into a bellcrank so that it pulls on a cable.... If you wanted to simplify this, 33c marine cables are designed to be pushed, so the bellcrank can be eliminated if you setup the arm on the carb to be pushed....
I didn't like the steep foot angle that the stock gvan pedal sets at, so I built an entire new setup that brings the pedal hinge up under the arch of my foot so I can also decelerate with my heel and my foot can rest on the pedal without pushing it.... I also built it to pull on a 33c cable instead of pushing...


[url=https://servimg.com/view/16741936/61]

Thanks guy's.I just got the truck in to my shop today. i will be looking at it this weekend and see
whats up with the throttle bracket. And I need to see if anyone has a drive shaft for the big six (240) I need one with the big u-joints. with the truck on the ground I measured it at 23 1/2 in
Thanks

Economan, Vic Lafountaine (Old Skool), can help you out. He just got back from the hospital but I saw him respond to someone on another site.

He might take a little bit to respond but you can try PM'ing him or text him at 1-815-335-three zero three three with your request. He knows more about Econolines than most of us will ever forget.

His Email is vlafountaine@socal.rr.com

Thanks vanny. I will ck with him

Well I went and seen Vic (Old Skool ) today and picked up my part's that I took down to him two week's ago. Thanks Vic for all the help and Knowledge. The Cross member look's great and the auto steering column look's great too. i will try and post pic's soon.
Thanks again Vic

Well I'm still wanting on my welding guy to weld in my engine mounting bracket for the cross member. Then I will be putting the engine in hopefully for the Last time. will post pic's soon

Sounds Great, can't wait to see those pics. I wish I was closer to Vic so I could score some of his knowledge and parts! Congrats!!!

I have been selling my 240 cables AND THE V8 cables for many years. I DESIGNED MY V8 CABLE to be longer and use a special end for the carburetor end mount. Its designed so that it can cleanly come down to the back of the carb from the back of the doghouse and so it has to be a longer length as well to do that. The BEST routing IMO as a very suttle bend rather than twisting and turning and so on. Its straight forward, however the cable WILL WORK DOWN TO A 6" RADIUS. I route it down the drivers side along with the wiring and the fuel line. VERY KLEEN,,,,,  I tried the LOKAR carb mount and returned it as I found the universal one for about $9 bucks offers much better kick down adjustment






as well as carb adjustments.

There are TWO TYPES of bell crank units used for the big six. ONE is for the MANUAL TRANSMISSION of which DOES NOT NEED A KICK DOWN (lol),,,,,,,AND this type in the picture of which has an adjustable kick down type bar on it. TWO TYPES OF this automatic bell crank as the other type has the bar welded in position as permanent. OVER THE YEARS I have seen at least two dozen of this type and so I suspect it was a FACTORY install?????  WHO KNOWS,WHO CARES,,, it works,,,
The 2nd pic showing the welded type in my welding fixture. I built the jig so that I could re weld it back in perfect alignment as I replace the OEM PLASTIC BEARINGS with BRONZE self lubricating bearings....

Well finally have the engine mounting bracket that I got from Vic welded up in my epup
and it's looking good. just need to replace the rear main seal and replace the pan gasket. Then I can install the engine and the other parts I got from Vic. Will be posting some pic's when I can.
Thanks you Vic for all your help! I do appreciate all your help and info.

Andy

Andy,, YOU made my day !!  SO TIRED of copy cats and so on?   Helps me to want to help people who want to understand how it all works and not another free bee,,,,, I enjoy figuring out WHY our trucks have some issues and the easiest way to solve the issues,,,,After so many years of seeing so many hack jobs and RE DO'S,, its nice to help people to NOT waste time and money by copying mistakes I have seen so many times with people wasting time in the past SO many times before,,,
THANK YOU,,
vic

Engine is in and almost ready it start it up for the first time. Just need Radiator hose and hook up the fuel lines. Thanks again for your help vic

Its looking nice,,,,,  a couple of red flags to me though?  I dont want to be a know it all and or pick on anything,,, Just a few things that I have talked about for a long time and perhaps some new info for you to consider?   
 The alternator pushing my buttons at first,,,,, In those days that unit would have been okay, but it does exactly nothing when its idling as it can only put out amps beginning around 1500 rpm to excite it and keep it putting out juice. Higher rpm needed to keep higher amperage output at its peak. I am a BIG FAN of NO MECHANICAL FAN as well as using a PULLER fan as you have. For years I have been saying that you can set an electric fan to CONTINUE to work after you shut the motor off. IMO A BIG ADVANTAGE for our Barbecue dog house setup. Added value is that an electric fan setup uses less hrspwr as well,, maybe not much but still............
 HOWEVER there is a problem here as I see it and the reason why I found and use the 3G alternator as the infamous  100 amp GM bad boy one wire is now a dinosaur as well. 
 Many years ago when I found the 3G alternator it was while researching tech info and found that a SINGLE BELT has a MAXIMUM AMP rating of 80 amps. The GM unit comes with a SINGLE belt and so the info contradicts each other, except for a one big point,,, The GM unit not putting out any amps at idle but rather the 100 amp capability at over 1,000 rpm. This is why it wont squeeeeeeeel at idle. It has no load on it until the rpm is up.
 This brings up the my main point, and its not picking on you, but perhaps you werent also aware of all of this as well as other new people not aware either,,
 SO,, A FAN CFM number directly depends on the amount of amps it uses and if less amps to it then the less the rpm will be which means its not running at its fullest cfm rating.   All of the hoopalah about the ONE WIRE stuff is also antique according to the other research I did.  You can easily change any alternator to a one wire by simply by passing the yellow sensor wire to directly to the battery connector,,, The one wire was designed for an alternator that was a long distance away from the AMP LOAD, which on ours is at the battery terminal of the starter relay... waste of time IMO,,, Super easy on the 3G as in the picture.

  The 3G alternators has a lot of advantages as it puts out 90 amps @ 600 rpm.  Coming in at least three sizes that I know of. I use the 135 amp unit as its far more than we need and works perfectly if a few things are taken care of. This means that when you are stuck in stop and go traffic and its so hot you can fry an egg on the roof of ours.......THAT you can sit there in gear, at idle, and the fan and your cooling fan will be working at its FULL CFM.  The ONLY ISSUE is that IT WILL SQUEEEEEEEL at idle as it needs TWO BELTS. Remembering that a single belt will only handle 80 amps and the reason why. I prefer to also use the short nosed water pump at the same time as it gives me another 4 inchs or so room to play around with....  Just sayin,, not pickin,,,, only trying to help.... The last picture showing the PIGGY BACK regulator (very nice access, and no more in front of the radiator) and shows how to convert it to a ONE WIRE alternator. The yellow regulator wire is the sensor wire and reads the amp load at the source of which,,,,,,,,,is at the battery terminal of the starter relay.  Next pc showing a custom mount I made up to install one on a customers 200. Issue was he didnt want to go to the DUAL belt at the time and eventually got tired of the PREDICTED squeel at idle. Ended up putting the dual belt setup on it after all..... 1 st picture is from Brian Everwain who finished figuring out the serp setup for me. Also clearly showing why I use the short nosed water pump.... IN THE OLD DAYS you could get a "MATCHED SET" of belts,,,,, NOT any more, as the basic reason of why the SERPENTINE belt is used....

Thanks for the info Vic. At this time I need to run what I have until I have the money to upgrade to a better alternator. I'm just trying to get it up and running for now.
Thanks again for the info Vic.
ANDY

Well got the old girl running after 20 some years last night. Still needs some more work but I'm getting there

OK guy's I have a question. What is everyone using for radiator hose for the V8 engine swap with the 302 ford?????