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BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER.... A's, G's & E's


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oo3
jkr
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    Electronic Ignition for a 318?

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    Electronic Ignition for a 318? Empty Electronic Ignition for a 318?

    Post by Guest Wed May 27, 2009 5:44 pm

    awaiting the delivery of my A108, the previous owner told me the vacumm advance is a kaput on it. So I'm thinking I'll just replace the whole distributor and put in an electronic ignition system.

    anyone have any tips?
    recommended systems?
    jkr
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    Post by jkr Wed May 27, 2009 5:55 pm

    all new but reasonably priced from dodge; part # p3690426 is the kit for a basic conversion and easy to install with included instructions. pick it up at a dodge dealer, summit, jegs i think, and they all use the same part number but change the prefix.
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    oo3


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    Post by oo3 Wed May 27, 2009 8:47 pm

    or take it up a notch and do a hei conversion - mopar electronic distributor and gm hei module - http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15779 - describes procedure for slant six but same parts used for 8 - for the 8 they have a bracket to mount to dist - http://www.designed2drive.com/ - oo3
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    Post by Guest Thu May 28, 2009 3:33 am

    Mancini Racing also has a kit available.

    www.maniciniracing.com
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    Post by Guest Thu May 28, 2009 8:01 am

    nate the skate wrote:Mancini Racing also has a kit available.

    www.maniciniracing.com

    link no workie.
    jkr
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    Post by jkr Thu May 28, 2009 2:24 pm

    www.manciniracing.com .....nate gots to many i's
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    Electronic Ignition for a 318? Empty Electronic ignition for 318...again

    Post by Guest Thu Nov 12, 2009 2:26 am

    jkr wrote:all new but reasonably priced from dodge; part # p3690426 is the kit for a basic conversion and easy to install with included instructions. pick it up at a dodge dealer, summit, jegs i think, and they all use the same part number but change the prefix.

    I put the kit from Summit on the 318 in my 69 A100. Sure is a lot more even tempered than it was. Also more fuel efficient, responsive, and no more messing around with points! I still have problems getting it to start, after it's run a while, and I haven't figured that one out yet. Anyone else?
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Thu Nov 12, 2009 2:47 pm

    You need to narrow down the hard starting problem,,,,,,it could be no spark, no fuel, too much fuel,,,,,Check for spark when the problem shows up,,,,Spray some carburetor cleaner down the carb and see if that changes anything,,,,,is the choke on or is the carb flooding,,,,,and what do you have do to get it going??????
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    Post by Guest Thu Nov 12, 2009 6:18 pm

    Done all of this. It acts almost like a vapor lock, but that's not it either. Sometimes the carb cleaner will work, but most times all I can do is let it sit till its darn good and ready. Generally it happens if I've parked, then started it again , and almost always on the 3rd start of the day. I'm beginning to think it's just old, and testy, kinda like me!!! lol
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Thu Nov 12, 2009 7:16 pm

    So it is not flooding out???? Is the Choke open????? will it start if you hold the gas pedal all the way down while cranking it??? If you put in electronic ignition, did you disable the boost voltage from the relay to the coil???? Do you have 12 volts to the coil while cranking????
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    Post by Guest Thu Nov 12, 2009 8:27 pm

    The only part of this I haven't considered, looked into, and set aside is your last question. 12 volts to the coil......hadn't even thought about that one. Tell me more?
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Thu Nov 12, 2009 9:18 pm

    Well,,,,,,when you have points and condenser, the coil gets 6 volts from the ignition switch by having a ballast resistor right before the coil. And to help with starting, the starter relay sends 12 volts to the same positive side of the coil for a hotter spark. And if you installed an electronic ignition in it,,,,,did you leave the 6 volt wiring in there,,,,,,did you disconnect the boost voltage from the starter relay so you don't have any voltage going to the coil when cranking the engine,,,,,,now thats what you need to check,,,,,voltage in the START and RUN circuits from the ignition switch......
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    Post by Guest Thu Nov 12, 2009 10:12 pm

    Unfortunately, now you've explained the process, I can tell you that all this was done too. Don't think I don't appreciate you patient replies, I do. They're letting me mentally recheck my steps, and that helps a lot. If you have anymore suggestions, please, bear with me! Thanks again.

    On a couple of occasions, upon starting, the van backfired loudly then coughed a puff of smoke from the carburator. I'd say flooded, except I never really put my foot into the gas pedal to start it, usually not necessary to start it.
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Thu Nov 12, 2009 11:34 pm

    Its all about giving us clues to solve the problem,,,,,and narrowing it down to one area,,,,,,like what was the last thing you did to the van before it started acting up,,,,,,,or was it always that way,,,,,,,,you say it acts different when the engine is warmed up than when it is cold,,,,,,cold seems better,,,,so lets break that down,,,,,,what is happening differently,,,,,,what are you doing differently,,,,,,,if you say you always got spark,,,,,then lets go with fuel,,,,,maybe carb needle leaks and engine floods over,,,,,drys up overnight,,,,,thats why you look down carb after you park it,,,,,,step on gas,,,,,see if there is a puddle down there,,,,,,and if you crank the engine with the gas pedal pressed down,,,,,,you let more air in and it will mix with any extra gas that might be in the intake manifold,,,,,no gas flows out of the carb when you crank the engine with the gas pedal floored,,,,,,crank that engine without stepping on the gas pedal and the carb adds more gas,,,,,,,so if the engine is flooded out,,,,,you don't want to aggravate the situation by cranking it and not holding the gas pedal to the floor. We usually go round and round with postings until we get down to the source of the problem, so sometimes it takes a while to solve a problem,,,,,,,
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    Post by Guest Thu Nov 12, 2009 11:52 pm

    Now THAT's given me something to sink my teeth into! I will be diving into the doghouse tomorrow. I'll let you know what comes of it. Thanks! Have a good night. Smile
    jkr
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    Post by jkr Fri Nov 13, 2009 2:07 pm

    just for giggles check the polarity of your coil, negative to distributer and pos from ignition. i'v done it and sometimes we overlook the simple things. they will start and run hooked up backwards but would be difficult to start after the coil heats up.
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    Electronic Ignition for a 318? Empty HEI conversion

    Post by gravesj Mon Nov 16, 2009 12:13 pm

    I changed mine to a GM HEI unit and got a mopar electronic dist. from junkyard. I spent like $70 total on the whole project. Runs way better even regapped the plugs!!!
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    Post by Guest Tue Nov 17, 2009 7:11 pm

    I always use Mallory Unilite distributors. Never had a problem with one.
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    Post by Guest Fri Dec 04, 2009 10:28 am

    a guy on flebay sells gm style distribs for almost any thing, they work great i got one for my 67 and love it. you mentioned it back fired was the backfire through the exhaust or carb?
    kiwimopar
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    Post by kiwimopar Sat Jan 30, 2010 4:39 pm

    ''On a couple of occasions, upon starting, the van backfired loudly then coughed a puff of smoke from the carburator''

    Sounds like your ignition leads are not quite correct in order at the distributor cap. Check the leads again & in particular 5 & 7 - easy to get them mixed up.
    Hope that helps.
    RodStRace
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    Post by RodStRace Sun Feb 21, 2010 1:46 pm

    One more thing to check is the EI module grounded properly through the body.
    The Chryslers are pretty darn trouble-free, so most people have no experience troubleshooting them!
    Whenever you move the ignition switch to or from the start position, it applies or removes the 12 V to the coil. This can and will trigger a spark. If it's in the right spot, it can and will ignite the cylinder the rotor is pointing at, regardless of if it's ready! That may be the cause of the symptom mentioned.
    I've even seen bad modules triggering an almost constant stream of spark from a door buzzer signal!
    Provided all wiring is correct and grounds are good, the modules are the most common failure, with the ballast being second. Both are usually taken out by a problem with the wiring or grounds though. They are pretty rugged, but heat can kill too!
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    Post by Guest Mon Feb 22, 2010 10:07 pm

    yeppers rod is dead on those damn chrysler modules can make you snatch your self bald. very important to have a clean no paint crud or anything else contact where they mount, i use dielectric compound once its clean down to bare metal. good luck keep us posted

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