Lowering The Front

Just completed the lowering of the front on my van, 1-1/2" by de-arching the springs, shortening the sway bar links, and removing the OEM snubbers and their brackets. Used universal Rancho leaf spring clamps, and Prothane axle snubbers for Jeep CJ5/CJ7's. Used my Harbor Freight press to de-arch each individual leaf, made plates to wrap the frame where the old brackets were cutofff, with a sawzall, for more strength, drilled and tapped the frame and bolted the new snubbers on. Had to cut down the sway bar links to keep the ends level to the road.  A little paint and voila! Bonafide 1-1/2" lower in front, sway bar angled correctly, same clearance axle to snubbers, brake lines, radiator support etc clear the leaf springs as the suspension travels, and all other geometry is good. Everything clears as the suspension travels, no bottoming out. The spring still have about a 1/2" arch at ride height. A press, sawzall and vise w/hammer to bend the steel plate and time is all that's really needed. Will be awhile before road worthy, gotta install a line lock on the front brake line etc.

nice, make sure and post some pics of the line lock.

Looks good!
I run 14" front wheels and 15" rears to get my rig a little lower to the ground because I hate cross winds! LOL

I really want to rebuild my front end.
Got as far as getting the spring shackle bushings bought and shipped to me!
LOL

Nice job. But think about the changed pinion angle (maybe shimming the rear axle?). The diff seems to be a bit picky about that, IIRC.

The pinion angle hasn't change at all,  the engine/ trans mounting hasn't changed, and the rear setup is original, just to be clear. Only the front has been lowered

68bigblock wrote:nice, make sure and post some pics of the line lock.

Decided to install the line lock on the rear line instead, will give more control holding the front brakes with the pedal in the box during the burnout and coming out to stage vs. just locking the fronts with the lock being either on/off. These things can be used either way. This way you just lock out the rear before pressing the brakes, only the fronts will work. Using a Biondo 2 port mounted on the cross frame in front of the axle, in between the hardline and hose to the axle. Need some brake line adapters to plumb it in.

Good idea, I never thought about putting it on the rear line. the one i have is from Hurst but i think they all work the same.

Don't forget to adjust the Headlights !

Yeah, always thought they go on the front but after reading that many put them on the rears and the merits of it, not to mention the room to spare to locate the solenoid! The brake system at the front is kinda cluttered already. I just really like the idea of being able to control the fronts the whole time

Pic of it mounted and hooked up. Will be a while before I can try it out, time for rewire job and engine building!

looks good, thats the way i'll go as well, i see you plumbed it the same as it would be done on the front. so i'm guessing they are not directional just a open/close solenoid?

The solenoid is directional, but the wiring isn't, either lead for ground and other for 12v

looks good! hit me up some time I would like to come by and check it out. I took the possum van to greenwood 2 weeks ago to camp had a ball