brake pedal removal, floor seal/grommet ?

Has anyone ever removed the brake pedal assy from their A100? I've got the braces off. Looks like I have to remove the floor/pedal seal/grommet.(mine is hard, and brittle) Anyone know if the brake pedal floor grommet is sold, and who sells them ?
After I remove the floor grommet, will the pedal come out ?

So nobody has ever removed a brake pedal ?? I've got mine loose. My only problems are, the floor seal, and the shaft. I can not figure how to remove the shaft that the pedal pivots on. As for the weather seal. I can cut it and work around that.

Sorry wish I could help but haven't had to do this yet. Hopefully someone will man up and help you out. Good luck, Nick.

Thanks, I've looked at my FSM. But it does not help. And I've looked at an online parts manual. But am unclear of how the shaft is removed. Thinking that if I cut out the rubber floor seal. That I may be able to get enough pitch to get the pedal off the pivot shaft. But unsure if that will work.

The brake arm cover plate and seal will slide off the brake pedal, you need to remove the pad first. That seal can be made from some 1/8" neoprene rubber. If the pedal assy is dangling down below and the small cover is off and you still can not get it out then take the complete cover plate off which will require removing the steering column.

see below

busman78 wrote:The brake arm cover plate and seal will slide off the brake pedal, you need to remove the pad first. That seal can be made from some 1/8" neoprene rubber. If the pedal assy is dangling down below and the small cover is off and you still can not get it out then take the complete cover plate off which will require removing the steering column.

Thanks for the help. I just looked at my pickup...sure as heck, there's a large cover. You know sometimes your trying to hard to figure something out. That you can not see the answer in front of your face the shame of not looking harder

If you are trying to remove the entire brake pedal assembly then the pivot bolt will have to come out, which begs the question - what is the end result you are after?

When disc brakes at installed (which I've just done). Most people say that the leg pressure needed to stop, may/will need to be increased to stop the vehicle. Since disc brakes require more brake PSI to work.
But by drilling some extra holes in the part of the brake pedal, that connects to the master cylinder pushrod. You can change the brake pedal ratio. Meaning, more mechanical advantage= more brake pressure, from the same amount of leg force.
But there is a price to pay..When you change the pushrod connection point (moving it closer to the pivot point). The stroke of the pedal will become longer.But will create more master cylinder pressure.
So I want to drill a few holes, above the point were the MC pushrod attaches,for adjustment. I've done this before and had good results. On my street rod 46 Dodge pickup (my avatar), that has manual brakes.
When you said pivot bolt..you ment the bolt correct? not the shaft.

Yes.

Please post your results.

The pickup is up on jack stands right now. Brakes are almost done. But sadly I won't be able to drive it until May 1st, when my insurance renews.

Okay, May it is. Mine seems to work with the master cylinder I used, Mopar B/E body but not much road time due to crappy B&M shifter. The new Lokar replacement was just dropped off by UPS thirty minutes ago, got some fab work to do now.

I have pulled sevaral, unscrew the four philips sheet metal screws on the interior floor and unbolt brake pedal remove spring under the van. Pull whole unit out from the inside of the van. I use rubber matting that we throw away from work to replace the worn out rubber. Hope this answers and helps.

busman78 wrote:Okay, May it is. Mine seems to work with the master cylinder I used, Mopar B/E body but not much road time due to crappy B&M shifter. The new Lokar replacement was just dropped off by UPS thirty minutes ago, got some fab work to do now.

So you've changed to disc brakes? and the leg pressure is fine?  Since I've got my vehicle apart. I just wanted to create an adjustable pedal ratio system. It seemed like the perfet time to do this. So if needed, I could try to improve braking.  But I plan to start with the stock position.

I have Scarebirds set up, used a 1-1/32" bore aluminum master cylinder two bolt style which is made for disk/drum set ups in B/E bodied manual brake vehicles. I did install a proportioning valve just in case, so far have not had a chance to lay down some tracks at a deserted parking lot.

My M/C has a 1" bore. And was the stock master cylinder for 1972-75 dodge van that had manual disc brakes.