VintAGE-Vans

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BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER.... A's, G's & E's


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    Ballast Resistor part number?

    slowflapper
    slowflapper


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    Ballast Resistor part number? Empty Ballast Resistor part number?

    Post by slowflapper Fri Jul 29, 2011 12:42 pm

    Anyone have a part number for the stock ballast resistor (1965 273cid)?

    Looks like Im about to get started on some rewiring of the charging system and want to replace it. The parts house didnt have a stock coil that fit well so I went with an Accell "universal replacement" coil if that matters.
    RodStRace
    RodStRace


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    Post by RodStRace Fri Jul 29, 2011 1:18 pm

    The coil matters and the charging system matters. Why couldn't the parts place find the right one?
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Fri Jul 29, 2011 3:54 pm

    Ballast Resistor part number? Part_l10
    slowflapper
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    Post by slowflapper Fri Jul 29, 2011 6:24 pm

    RodStRace wrote:The coil matters and the charging system matters. Why couldn't the parts place find the right one?

    It's Autozone (not reliable part numbers from these guys in my experience), the part number they gave me had a neck that was obviously smaller (inside diameter) than the one on my stock coil. I told them it wasn't the same and he swapped it for the Accell coil for the same $. I'm thinking I should return it and go to a different parts house and get a stock one if possible.

    This Accell coil show up as a match at Napa, PN: BK 7355274, same one I got from autozone.

    This plane jane coil looks like a better match at half the price.
    slowflapper
    slowflapper


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    Post by slowflapper Fri Jul 29, 2011 6:44 pm

    donivan65 wrote:Ballast Resistor part number? Part_l10

    Thanks!

    Looks like Napa doesnt carry the IC 1700 coil but they list an IC 1600 coil for this truck and they list several resistors to go with it, thats a good start anyway.
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    Post by Guest Fri Jul 29, 2011 7:06 pm

    ICR 23 and ICR 24 are both good, current, NAPA part numbers. My local store has them both in stock. The ICR 23 is only a 2 terminal resistor and the ICR is a 4 terminal, depending on your needs.
    Autozone lists both also, CR105 and AL795. Both are Duralast brand. AL795 is also 2 terminal, CR104 has 4. My local store also says they stock both of these.
    Oreilly shows only 1, the 2 terminal, part number RU19.
    Hope these numbers help.
    RodStRace
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    Post by RodStRace Fri Jul 29, 2011 7:17 pm

    Stock for these are all the 2 terminal. Only the later EI and solid state regulator systems used the 4 terminal.
    dix
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    Post by dix Sat Jul 30, 2011 8:19 pm

    i used the 4 terminal resistor only using 1 leg with no problem if it goes out i will just plug in to the other leg...instead of looking were i put the spare.
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sat Jul 30, 2011 10:42 pm

    Points kind of like 1.5 Ohms and that dual ballast resistor on the electronic ignition is .5 and 5 ohms,,,,,,,,,,,


    Ballast Resistor part number? Dodge_11
    slowflapper
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    Post by slowflapper Tue Aug 02, 2011 10:22 am

    too bad they left the regulator off that diagram Sad

    Ive been gathering docs and reading through the shop manual while I get ready to rewire all the ignition/charging circuits. If the temps would drop out of the mid 90's I might get to start on it.
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Tue Aug 02, 2011 10:44 am

    Ballast Resistor part number? Dodge_12


    Ballast Resistor part number? Dodge_13


    Ballast Resistor part number? Dodge_14
    slowflapper
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    Post by slowflapper Sun Aug 07, 2011 5:50 pm

    I got some good news and some bad news.

    I spent a good bit of yesterday and most of today checking connections and rewiring the bad parts. The good news is I think the over charging problem is fixed, i found some pretty ugly "twisted together" connections in the charging circuit from the previous owners.

    The van starts perfectly when cold and charges just above normal at 2000rpm and idle, both cold and at running temp.

    The bad news is it still acts like the coil is bad but the coil is brand new, not even an hour of run time on it. I fired it up and drive it around the neighborhood and it sputtered out about the time I hit the driveway, about five or ten minutes after it reaches normal operating temp of 160-180.

    From what I know that is indicative of a bad coil... is anything else a possible cause? Bad condensor maybe?

    The carb, points, cap, rotor, wires, plugs are all good, it just sputters out and wont restart after it gets hot. It acts like it wants to start, turning over real fast and sputtering but never will fire over until it cools back off.

    This is definitely temp related and certainly ignition related.

    Any idea's?
    RodStRace
    RodStRace


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    Post by RodStRace Sun Aug 07, 2011 7:39 pm

    When you say "definitely temp related and certainly ignition related." I agree with the first part. Now, let's check the second part. Check for spark when cold and part warm. Then let it get hot and when it dies, check for spark again.

    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sun Aug 07, 2011 8:10 pm

    Put some meters on it,,,,,,,,take an ohm reading of the primary and secondary windings of the coil when cold and when hot,,,,,,take a voltage reading at the coil positive terminal same way,,,,,,take a dwell reading both ways also,,,,,,,see if there is any change,,,,,,,
    slowflapper
    slowflapper


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    Post by slowflapper Sun Aug 14, 2011 2:27 pm

    Aight, I think I fixed it.

    I didn't have time for taking a bunch of voltage readings so I got a new coil, condensor and put on my spare voltage reg and swapped them out with the parts that were in it.

    With the new parts and all the wiring repairs I'm looking at 14.3vdc on one side of the resistor, 10.5 on the other side and 10.5 on the coil. The battery was showing 14.3vdc at idle with the amp gauge just above the center line in what I see as a "normal" position.

    I started it and let it get to running temp (180) and then turned it off for five minutes so it would heat soak a bit. It started right back up at 210 degrees and ran fine, I repeated that a few times just to check.

    I'm still going to baby it around and carry an extra condensor and coil with me but I think I got it under control for now.

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