left hand thread

on my 69 i found i have a left hand thread wheel on each side - that is one each on each side - i am curious which side was supposed to be that way - i suppose it does not matter as at some point i will replace with right hand thread - oo3

Should be the driver's or left side.
The rear studs are in the axle, tough to swap.
The front are in the hub/drum assembly, easy to swap.
I'd guess someone put the LF on the RF.

thats probably what happened - i also have a mix of 13/16 and 3/4 nuts! - oo3

If you are going to change the studs on the front hubs DON'T drive them out or you will FUBAR the hub. They have been swedged on the front to hold the drum, there are two ways to deal with these, 1- grind off the head from the inside, or 2- use a small hole saw to remove the "burrs" from the front. 10" drum 2200 lb from axles use one stud(shorter fatter knurled area), and 11" 2500 lb axles use another one (longer skinny knurl)

thanks for that info 67a - good thing i had not already tried to remove them - oo3

While we're on this subject, is it possible to get replacement new hubs for the front? Any info appreciated as usual

Kiwi... Near as I can tell from my parts book the answer is NO, it shows the hub/drum as one part. I helped out a couple of other vanners on here with ones from my spare axles. I am down to my last one, "emergency" spare.

Just thought I would ask....I guessed the answer wasn't going to be good

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but does someone know when dodge stopped putting left hand lugs on the drivers side? I've started the disc conversion on my '64, and have discovered that all 4 wheels are "normal" righty-tighty, lefty-loosie.
Also, when removing the studs, after grinding the heads from the inside, do I push them through from the back or front?
thanks

equium wrote:Sorry to bring up an old thread, but does someone know when dodge stopped putting left hand lugs on the drivers side? I've started the disc conversion on my '64, and have discovered that all 4 wheels are "normal" righty-tighty, lefty-loosie.
Also, when removing the studs, after grinding the heads from the inside, do I push them through from the back or front?
thanks

1973 is the simplest answer. It gets complicated quickly, due to drums and discs, leftover stock and various models changing over at different times.
As the previous pictures show, the studs are pressed into the hubs, then the drum is installed over the studs and hub, then swedged around the studs to make it a single unit.
If you try to press out the studs with the swedge still in place, the amount of force needed to overcome the stud in the hub AND the swedge will be enough to bend the hub.
If you grind off the stud head, pressing the threaded end would be the same as not grinding the head off and pressing...
You need to press the stud out from the back, where you ground off the head.
This should also cause the drum which is swedged to the studs to separate from the hub.

1973. Hmm. Looks like previous owner's grandfather (original owner) did some upgrades. That's good. I was not looking forward to swapping the studs on the rear axle. Thanks for the reply, Rod.

What often happened was that one or more tire changers or brake inspectors used an impact to remove the lugs. This tended to break things!
The store would often either replace at their own cost or "upgrade" the customer to standard right hand studs. They are easier to find and will conform to what the average low guy in the shop expected. When going with locking lug nuts or aftermarket aluminum wheels, finding the left hand parts is sometimes tough too. Another reason they have been switched over the years.

Yup, I just dealt with this on my van. I almost broke off the studs not knowing they were left hand thread on the drivers side. Eventually I will change that.

I'm going to post some photos of the studs on my hub/drum. I don't think they're swedged. they might have already been converted. The studs in there now are Dorman 610-039. Look at my pictures and tell me what you think. I'm thinking that if what I have is not swedged, that I might be able to push the studs out to seperate the hub.

likely not swedged-likely replaced before=put somethinjg under the stud area to suppotr & hit with a hammer -see if coles out easil?

If the drum doesn't slip off (it looks like it won't), you can try to press to press them out, but be very careful not to distort the hub. Someone who has done many of them will have a 'feel' for how much pressure it should take.

You can also grind off the stud end and drill out the remaining part.

The hubs are not easy to find, so just remember that the stud is sacrificial and cheap, the drum less so and the hub should be saved above all else!