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BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER.... A's, G's & E's


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    Post by Guest Sun Mar 13, 2011 8:53 am

    I started this topic already on another post but figured it would be better to start a new post.

    I had my coil crack open and and the wire from the coil to the distributor completely melt down. Ive had a couple of really good responses.
    One was to check the pionts on the voltage regulator. So I opened the regulator and I didn't find anything that I would call pionts. It just was a circuit board with some diods and resisters. Is that correct?
    Another response was to check the ballest resistor. I have installed A new resistor along with coil, and pionts. After installing the new parts I tried to start it and it didnt want to start. Is there a ignition fuse in the 65's? Anyways all the wires in the engine compartment are dried out and cracking so I started replacing all the wires that needed replacing. This thing could have shorted out anywhere but I don't think thats what happened.
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    Post by Guest Sun Mar 13, 2011 9:17 am

    Can someone send pictures of the points on a voltage regulator for a 65 ?
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sun Mar 13, 2011 10:06 am

    For one thing, this is the original mechanical points voltage regulator,,,,,newer versions are transistorized,,,,,,There is not much you can do with these regulators,,,,,,now as for not starting, you need 12 volts at the positive side of the coil while cranking the engine,,,,,,,do you have it ???? Another test,,,,,hook your 12 volt test light to ground ,,,,,,see if the negative side of the coil blinks the light while cranking the engine,,,,,


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    Post by Guest Mon Mar 14, 2011 6:11 am

    Thanks Again Donivan. What part of San Diego or you from? I was born and raised in Escondido.
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    Post by donivan65 Mon Mar 14, 2011 10:13 am

    Right up the hill,,,,,,,,in Ramona,,,,,,,
    dix
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    Post by dix Mon Mar 14, 2011 1:36 pm

    your voltage regulator has been updated to a electronic one by some one. is there a fuseable link as well??
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    Post by Guest Tue Mar 15, 2011 8:24 am

    Hello Dix,
    Thank you for your response, I was begining to wonder what I had here. No fuseable link. I need to go to napa and pick some up.

    So I finished rewiring. And everything went good exept for one thing. I ran it about 15 minutes and my voltage meter stayed pegged on the C. I'm thinking that I havn't fixed the problem yet. I think the only things left to change would be the regulator and the alternator.


    Thanks to everyone.
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    Post by slowflapper Tue Mar 15, 2011 9:17 am

    Here's a pic of a bad mechanical VR just for reference.

    it's stuck together in the top left corner of the contacts:
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    Post by donivan65 Tue Mar 15, 2011 2:33 pm

    Ammeter says it's charging,,,,,but how many volts,,,,,,8?,,,,,14?,,,,,20?.
    You need to check the voltage at the battery and see what the voltage regulator is telling the alternator to put out. And maybe unplug the regulator and see if the alternator stops charging to test for shorted wiring to the alternator,,,,,
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    Post by dix Tue Mar 15, 2011 2:40 pm

    i would change the voltage regulator first. make sure you get the electronic one.it should cost around $20.to $25. the old ones like slowflapper is showing cost about $50 @ napa. they are junk.. if donivan65 chimes in see what he has to say he is very smart with every thing he post. slowflapper had a post were he bought his v.r. from .I can't remember.does your alternator have 1 field or 2 ??? donivan65 had apost on this also
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    Post by dix Tue Mar 15, 2011 2:41 pm

    nice job donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Tue Mar 15, 2011 4:30 pm

    Thanks Dix, He needs to see what he got,,,,,,,over the years these vehicles get modified with different pieces off of different vehicles from different peoples ideas,,,,,so it takes time to get to the bottom of the problems,,,,,but we will get there,,,,,just keep asking questions and providing additional information as you find it and you will be back on the road again,,,,,,
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    Post by donivan65 Tue Mar 15, 2011 4:47 pm

    Another test for the voltage regulator is to compare the voltage at the battery to the Ignition terminal on the regulator,,,,,they got to be kind of the same when the van is running,,,,,,the battery can have 14 volts in it, but since the Voltage Regulator asks the ignition switch how it's doing, IF there is a voltage loss through all the wiring and ignition switch, the regulator thinks the battery voltage is low and tells the alternator to put out more voltage until the Ignition terminal on the Regulator gets to 14 volts volts and the regulator shuts off the alternator,,,,,so unless 14 volts gets to that Ignition Terminal on the Voltage Regulator, the Alternator nevers stops charging and the battery gets overcharged,,,,,,,
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    Post by Guest Wed Mar 16, 2011 6:08 am

    Thanks Alot guys. That makes alot of sence Donivan I'll check all that out. Hopefully the weather stays nice for the rest of the week. I will let you guys know how it goes.

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