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BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER.... A's, G's & E's


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donivan65
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    opinions on pertronix dist modules?

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    Post by Guest Thu Oct 21, 2010 12:50 pm

    have used the drop in distributors before on a small block ford without problems... i have been having some troubles with my van and it was discussed in another thread "bad bog at wot". after testing everything under the sun the last thing i checked was for wear in the dist shaft, there is quite a bit of play in mine.. so after talking to a few people i was told that if you use the pertronix module that a small amount of play will not affect it and it will run fine. is this true? should i just buy another unit and then slap in the module? or go ghetto fabulous and try just the module first? Question
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    Post by donivan65 Thu Oct 21, 2010 1:11 pm

    I guess the first question would be ,,,,,,,,will dropping in a rebuilt distributor work??????


    opinions on pertronix dist modules? Dodge_16
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    Post by Guest Thu Oct 21, 2010 7:34 pm

    thnx for that photo don, i have one on order for tomorow morning but my main question is if the info i got was true and what is everyones opinion of pertronix?
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    Post by donivan65 Thu Oct 21, 2010 8:46 pm

    Well,,,,,,,,,,if I had a Dodge,,,,,,I would want common parts that I could get anywhere,,,,,anytime,,,,,anyplace,,,,,,,and those would be the ones off a newer Dodge,,,,,,,the electronic ignition and the electronic charging systems


    opinions on pertronix dist modules? Dodge_17


    opinions on pertronix dist modules? Dodge_18
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    Post by itruns Fri Oct 22, 2010 3:41 am

    Destro, does your '70 have the electronic voltage regulator like the one in the pic? Rockauto says the the '70s came with them.

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    Post by RodStRace Fri Oct 22, 2010 7:00 am

    Petronics is a good replacement for the stock points. They are mostly trouble-free, and can put up with a worn shaft.
    As mentioned, they are not available at every store, so to make sure you can get to point "B", it's good to have a backup. With the petronics, that means carrying another setup or a separate points dist. You could also carry a points and condenser, and swap back, provided the mods to install are easily undone. I haven't installed one in a Mopar, but they are pretty easy in GMs.
    If you stay with a points setup, you could carry a complete points dist and swap it out when there is an issue or at tuneup.
    The other way mentioned is to convert to Mopar EI. You must also convert to an electronic voltage regulator (a good idea anyway) if yours does not have this (1970-up do).
    These are available through Mopar, but I think the price is a bit high, considering you can put one together with junkyard parts or stock replacement parts and some wiring. Small block is Mopar Performance P3690426.
    With this setup, it's pretty darn reliable, but you will want to carry an extra ballast resistor and control module. They don't fail often, those are the usual suspects. Make sure the wiring is done right, and you should be able to set and forget.
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    Post by donivan65 Fri Oct 22, 2010 10:01 am

    ,,,,,,,,,,,and if I had to go Dodge shopping,,,,,,,I would wait for a 1/2 price Pick a Part sale,,,,,,,,,,buy a Distributor and Alternator for maybe $25,,,,,,,,,get,,,,,,, the ballast resistor, control unit and voltage regulator and most importantly, the connectors that go on them,,,,,,,,and you should always carry spares in your van. And get new cap, rotor and wires from a parts store....... I think your old coil will still work......
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    Post by Guest Fri Oct 22, 2010 2:40 pm

    i'll have to look and see if its has a volt reg, it should since its a 70.. im 100% with you guys on using common easy to find parts. that is always my plan as well. the main reason why the pertronix idea came up was because i was told by a local guy that nobody made reman dist for my slant and that if i had it rebuilt it would cost me mucho $ then i was told by him and pertronix that the module would work with a worn shaft.... so i was under the impression that slapping in the $75.00 module was my best bet. now of course i have my brand new dist in my hands that only cost $48.00 after tax so im gonna slap that in and see how things go. now i have seen ballst resistors go bad and am pretty familiar with them. everyone who is into mopar swears to carry and extra resistor in your vehicle.... for that reason im considering going with the pertronix module and then using an "accel" coil with internal ballst resistor that can be picked up at any kragen for aprox $20.00 thats only $9.00 more then a factory coil and seems it would solve a lot of head aches.. i have run that set up on my 69 falcon (car) for years without issue. thnx for all the input on this guys! i will give an update as soon as the dist is in and runnign!
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    Post by donivan65 Fri Oct 22, 2010 3:49 pm

    I guess the real voltage regulator question is do you have the old mechanical one with points in it,,,,,,or the transistorized version, or the newer electronic one,,,,,,,,or been totally upgraded to something like the world famous GM one wire type,,,,,,,,I don't know about that coil with a ballast resistor built in,,,,,,that will cut down on voltage out put,,,,,,,,Ballast resistors are necessary to cut down on voltage to the points to keep them from burning up,,,,,but there is always a bypass circuit when you are starting the engine to put full 12 volts to the coil for a hotter spark to help start the engine,,,then the coil runs off the ballast resistor. But some of those add on electronic ignitions can run with a ballast resistor,,,,,some you need to remove them,,,,,,,
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    Post by donivan65 Fri Oct 22, 2010 4:01 pm

    opinions on pertronix dist modules? Dodge_19
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    Post by Guest Fri Oct 22, 2010 4:39 pm

    donivan65 wrote:I guess the real voltage regulator question is do you have the old mechanical one with points in it,,,,,,or the transistorized version, or the newer electronic one,,,,,,,,or been totally upgraded to something like the world famous GM one wire type,,,,,,,,I don't know about that coil with a ballast resistor built in,,,,,,that will cut down on voltage out put,,,,,,,,Ballast resistors are necessary to cut down on voltage to the points to keep them from burning up,,,,,but there is always a bypass circuit when you are starting the engine to put full 12 volts to the coil for a hotter spark to help start the engine,,,then the coil runs off the ballast resistor. But some of those add on electronic ignitions can run with a ballast resistor,,,,,some you need to remove them,,,,,,,

    well actually most of the modern "performance" coils are designed this way mallory, msd, accel etc its just a simpler design that eliminates extra wiring....
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    Post by Guest Fri Oct 22, 2010 4:41 pm

    donivan65 wrote:opinions on pertronix dist modules? Dodge_19

    thnx for the pic i am very familiar with the diff types of voltage reg including gm "one wire alts" its just been a while since i even looked at the wiring set up on this and couldnt remember but i just checked this morning and it is the old style to the left in your pic.
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    Post by Guest Fri Oct 22, 2010 4:43 pm

    now on to the best part of our days work haha i picked up my new dist pulled the old one laid them on my work bench and this is what we have....

    opinions on pertronix dist modules? Distphoto

    now did i smoke too much crack for breakfast or is there a problem here??? lol!

    *edit: i got a dist for the 273 i believe instead of my monster 225. should have the right one tomorow morning.
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    Post by itruns Fri Oct 22, 2010 5:02 pm

    destro360 wrote:
    donivan65 wrote:opinions on pertronix dist modules? Dodge_19

    thnx for the pic i am very familiar with the diff types of voltage reg including gm "one wire alts" its just been a while since i even looked at the wiring set up on this and couldnt remember but i just checked this morning and it is the old style to the left in your pic.

    Was it under the dash? Does you alternator have two field terminals? If so, does one of them go to ground? The mechanical ones suck.
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    Post by donivan65 Fri Oct 22, 2010 6:29 pm

    If he has the mechanical regulator,,,,then there is only 1 wire going to the field,,,,,the electronic regulator has 2 wires going to the fields,,,,,the big difference is, the mechanical uses a Positive signal to regulate the alternator, while the electronic uses a Negative signal to regulate the alternator,,,,,,,however,,,,,stuff can sure get mixed up throughout the years,,,,,those alternators are not interchangeable,,,,,,you might get it to work but it will not produce its maximum output ......and those aftermarket coils don't use a ballast resistor,,,,they are high output,,,,,,they run on 12 volts,,,,,its just that I don't believe they would put a ballast resistor in one,,,,,resistors cut voltage down,,,,,the more voltage the better,,,,,,,and good riddance to those ballast resistors,,,,,especially the ones that built into the wiring looms,,,,,
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    Post by Guest Fri Oct 22, 2010 6:55 pm

    donivan65 wrote:If he has the mechanical regulator,,,,then there is only 1 wire going to the field,,,,,the electronic regulator has 2 wires going to the fields,,,,,the big difference is, the mechanical uses a Positive signal to regulate the alternator, while the electronic uses a Negative signal to regulate the alternator,,,,,,,however,,,,,stuff can sure get mixed up throughout the years,,,,,those alternators are not interchangeable,,,,,,you might get it to work but it will not produce its maximum output ......and those aftermarket coils don't use a ballast resistor,,,,they are high output,,,,,,they run on 12 volts,,,,,its just that I don't believe they would put a ballast resistor in one,,,,,resistors cut voltage down,,,,,the more voltage the better,,,,,,,and good riddance to those ballast resistors,,,,,especially the ones that built into the wiring looms,,,,,

    im not doubting your knowledge but i would incourage some more research on them...
    mallory with internal ballast i was happy as a clam when i found out about this type of coil.....
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    Post by donivan65 Fri Oct 22, 2010 7:26 pm

    Thats a special Mallory coil for their breakerless distributors,,,, low output,,,so it appears those Mallorys need a ballast resistor to operate and this is a coil if you don't want or don't have a ballast resistor,,,,,,but then that puts you with more weird stuff on your van,,,,,,It is not for Capacitor Discharge, Electronic or High Energy distributors,,,,,,but thats just one of the many choices you got if you want to get rid of your points,,,,,,but I surely don't like it,,,,,you are stuck with a Mallory distributor and you are stuck with that coil,,,,,buts its good you brought that up,,,,,
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    Post by Guest Fri Oct 22, 2010 7:49 pm

    donivan65 wrote:Thats a special Mallory coil for their breakerless distributors,,,, low output,,,so it appears those Mallorys need a ballast resistor to operate and this is a coil if you don't want or don't have a ballast resistor,,,,,,but then that puts you with more weird stuff on your van,,,,,,It is not for Capacitor Discharge, Electronic or High Energy distributors,,,,,,but thats just one of the many choices you got if you want to get rid of your points,,,,,,but I surely don't like it,,,,,you are stuck with a Mallory distributor and you are stuck with that coil,,,,,buts its good you brought that up,,,,,

    although i do agree with you about keeping it simple and i like to stick with parts that can be found at regular parts stores and junk yards, that is not the only coil designed that way.. accel, msd and others make them too and not just for mallory breakerless my thinking (which could be wrong) would be that i could use one of those coils to eliminate the ballast in my van.. like i said though i used that coil setup on my 289 with a mallory unilite and it has been great with very clean simple wiring... i used to have a big mopar style ballast resistor inline on my ford until i found out about those coils... the module setup for my ford was only $40.00 and the coil was $20.00 and they are regular stock items at kragen so to me it wasnt to "far out" and very cheap.




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    Post by donivan65 Fri Oct 22, 2010 7:56 pm

    But it sure is interesting,,,,,,,basically its just a place to hide a ballast resistor in,,,,,more for Show than for Go,,,,it says its not made to be used on the normal other types of Electronic, CDI or High Energy Distributors, so that makes it different than the other coils out there. But it would get the job done,,,,,,
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    Post by Guest Sat Oct 23, 2010 12:30 am

    donivan65 wrote:But it sure is interesting,,,,,,,basically its just a place to hide a ballast resistor in,,,,,more for Show than for Go,,,,it says its not made to be used on the normal other types of Electronic, CDI or High Energy Distributors, so that makes it different than the other coils out there. But it would get the job done,,,,,,

    true, true.... just seemed very convenient to me and sometimes (not always) technology gets smarter haha
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    Post by donivan65 Sat Oct 23, 2010 9:38 am

    Hey, its just the way I see it,,,,,and that don't really matter to anybody. You know, ballast resistors get hot,,,,,,heat kills,,,,,and trapping it inside a coil sure ain't going to help the life expectancy. But its an option,,,,,better than those points,,,,,,, there is better technology out there ,,,,,and it's all based on money,,,,,,and that has a big effect on what we end up getting
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    Post by Guest Sun Oct 24, 2010 12:36 pm

    ok pulled the dist out to inspect it further and found that the amount of "wiggle" it had was actually the entire dist moving not just the shaft.... myself and another auto enthusiast looked it over and decided it was just fine.. right now im at the conclusion that the main jet in the carb is plugged because the diaphram squirts fuel like it shoud when you hit the pedal but once it fires up it dies unless you give it some carb cleaner...
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    Post by RodStRace Sun Oct 24, 2010 12:44 pm

    destro360 wrote:ok pulled the dist out to inspect it further and found that the amount of "wiggle" it had was actually the entire dist moving not just the shaft.... myself and another auto enthusiast looked it over and decided it was just fine.. right now im at the conclusion that the main jet in the carb is plugged because the diaphram squirts fuel like it shoud when you hit the pedal but once it fires up it dies unless you give it some carb cleaner...

    /6 right? Be careful putting it back in, that plastic gear breaks easily, especially when it's older.

    Dies unless you feed it fuel (carb cleaner)?
    That means it's lean. At idle, this is not the main jet, but the idle circuit. Check for vacuum leaks, and make sure the idle screw isn't fully seated.
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    Post by donivan65 Sun Oct 24, 2010 7:33 pm

    I would crank the idle screw up, and see if it will idle long enough to see what happens as you open up the mixture screw and spray the intake gasket and carb base to see if you find a vacuum leak. And maybe shoot some air into the idle screw hole to blow out the passage. Did this problem just start or has it been around for awhile? Maybe check the points, each lobe ,,,see that shaft ain't bent or loose and not opening enough to fire some cylinders at idle if you are still using the old distributer.
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    Post by Guest Mon Oct 25, 2010 9:56 am

    i plan to take out the idle screw and blow some air through it... i know the base gasket is good because i just rebuilt the carb but i have seen a ton of crap in the fuel etc basically this is the story... when i got the van it was not running. the fuel pump was bad so i put a fuel pump on it and fired it up... when it started it had a dead hole (mis fire) i pulled the valve covered and found a bent push rod that had fallen out of place. so i replaced that push rod at that time the van was running but poor, the carb needed rebuilding first thing i noticed was the diaphram was bad no squirting fuel when you step on the pedal etc. so having rebuilt some carbs before i grabbed a kit sat it down on my coffe table and went to work making sure all passeges were cleaned out and blown out with air etc. put it back on and it ran better but still acted up under load like it was running out of fuel so i changed the points and condenser since they were worn anyway and are cheap i thought it would be worth a shot, didnt change anything... so a machinist i know told me to try changing the coil saying that had seen them go bad etc. a coil was only like $11.00 at my local auto parts store so a slapped one on and checked to make sure the ballast resistor was working properly etc.. this had no effect on the way it was running. along the way i also changed the spark plugs cap and rotor all the fuel lines and vac lines just for good measure including fuel filter and a new sending unit in the gas tank now the van used to fire right up and sound good it just ran like crap under load but now it fires up and dies like its out of gas unless you help it out with carb cleaner... but it has fuel in the bowl and plenty of fuel pressure and you can see gas squirt out nicley when the pedal is pressed and not running. so this is where i stand today haha ibasically just tinker with it on weekends but im really started to get lost as far as what is causing the problem on this thing....

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