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BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER.... A's, G's & E's


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Nightmoves
richie61
ChevyVanMan1
kookykrispy
donivan65
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    how do you fix the clutch spring

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    how do you fix the clutch spring Empty how do you fix the clutch spring

    Post by Guest Sat Jun 05, 2010 1:51 pm

    i was wondering how do you fix the clutch spring on a 1966 gmc handi bus custom mine broke and i dont know how to hook it back up?


    ps. if you have any pictures on how it hooks up that would be great thanks
    donivan65
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sat Jun 05, 2010 6:29 pm

    The spring goes from a hole in the crossmember to a hole in the clutch fork,,,,,,,and make sure there is freeplay in that clutch fork when you are done,,,,,you should be able to pull the fork back about 1/8" if the clutch is adjusted correctly,,,,,,,,


    how do you fix the clutch spring Repai144
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    Post by Guest Sun Jun 06, 2010 9:17 am

    thanks so much for your help that picture will come in "handi"
    kookykrispy
    kookykrispy


    Number of posts : 1533
    Location : Helendale, CA
    Age : 51
    Registration date : 2009-05-22

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    Post by kookykrispy Sun Jun 06, 2010 2:02 pm

    freetroy wrote:thanks so much for your help that picture will come in "handi"

    Awwwww... that pun is so bad! hahaha
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    Post by Guest Sun Jun 06, 2010 2:14 pm

    i know dont rub it in lol
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    ChevyVanMan1


    Number of posts : 425
    Location : Your Nation's Capital
    Registration date : 2009-07-19

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    Post by ChevyVanMan1 Wed Jun 23, 2010 8:25 am

    Thanks for that pic too. I've disambled most everything under there for clean and lube and now I have to figure out which thing goes where. That pic is a big help!!!
    richie61
    richie61


    Number of posts : 445
    Location : Van Nuys, CA
    Age : 63
    Registration date : 2010-01-04

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    Post by richie61 Wed Jun 23, 2010 11:21 am

    I always take pictures before I take something off. If I was a mechanic by trade it wouldn't be a problem. I did my brakes recently and if it wasn't for the pictures it would of taken me awhile to figure it out.
    Nightmoves
    Nightmoves


    Number of posts : 2214
    Location : Old Hickory Tenn.
    Age : 64
    Registration date : 2008-11-17

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    Post by Nightmoves Wed Jun 23, 2010 11:54 am

    I agree Ritchie.Before I came here,I never thought about it.Guess its something I kinda picked up from the Governor.Its paid off several times.Not only for 'where'd that go?' but as a progress file too.
    richie61
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    Post by richie61 Wed Jun 23, 2010 12:51 pm

    Moe, the last time I worked on a car before this was with my father a long long time ago. I archive all the photos so I can go back to them in the future. Brakes aren't hard and probably won't have to look at the pictures again but when I rip the engine and trans out this fall I'll be there with my camera. I have a whole gallery of the rear I'm going to replace soon. It's my little security blanket so I don't have to email Donivan all the time.
    Vantasia
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    Post by Vantasia Sun Mar 09, 2014 6:33 pm

    donivan65 wrote:The spring goes from a hole in the crossmember to a hole in the clutch fork,,,,,,,and make sure there is freeplay in that clutch fork when you are done,,,,,you should be able to pull the fork back about 1/8"  if the clutch is adjusted correctly,,,,,,,,


    how do you fix the clutch spring Repai144
    Related to this post and picture, I was replacing the rubber boot today and noticed my push rod swivel, the little block between the two adjusting nuts, has the pin worn to a slot about half way through. What is the correct part number for this, there are several on eBay but some have fine thread, coarse thd, or no thread, which is the right one for 1st Gen van without taking it apart to examine it? Donivan, please help!
    econopoor
    econopoor
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    Location : Jackson TN
    Registration date : 2010-04-18

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    Post by econopoor Sun Mar 09, 2014 7:03 pm

    From the looks of the one in Donivan's picture you would want the one with no threads. It has lock nuts on both sides. The no threads allow you to adjust the clutch without disconnecting the linkage. Just loosen the lock nuts and turn them until adjusted. The pin will slide on the threaded rod.

    Duane in Tennessee
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sun Mar 09, 2014 11:32 pm

    sounds like normal wear and tear to me,,,,,,,all the carb, trans and shift linkage is metal to metal,,,,you need to check both parts,,,I just weld or braze the cuts and worn holes and file and drill them nice again,,,but if you want to buy one, get one that fits the cross shaft AND the adjustment rod,,,,,you could always drill it out to make the adjustment rod fit through it if you had to...


    how do you fix the clutch spring Chevy_32

    how do you fix the clutch spring Chevy_33
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sun Mar 09, 2014 11:56 pm

    The clutch rod also breaks after 15,891 pushes, so unless you have been counting,,,,,check both ends of the long rod,,,,peek in next to the master cylinder and also the upper end of  that cross shaft that pushes  the adjuster rod.....(that top picture above is the lever and forward end of the clutch rod next to the master cylinder)


    how do you fix the clutch spring Repai102
    Vantasia
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    Post by Vantasia Mon Mar 10, 2014 3:59 am

    econopoor wrote:From the looks of the one in Donivan's picture you would want the one with no threads. It has lock nuts on both sides. The no threads allow you to adjust the clutch without disconnecting the linkage. Just loosen the lock nuts and turn them until adjusted. The pin will slide on the threaded rod.

    Duane in Tennessee
    Mine's got the coarse 3/8"-18 threaded rod with both nuts, but the GM part I've seen also has the threads inside the block.  The shop manual shows the adjustment procedure to loosen both nuts, adjust pedal and then re-tighten nuts, nothing about removing swivel and rotating it so it must be a no thread one as you suggest, thanks! I'll look for that one, I think its the same GM PN 3813225 shown for Corvettes in the listings and its repro-ed.  My pin looks like a fish hook like the rod Donivan pictured!
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Mon Mar 10, 2014 10:23 am

    Both types are OK,,,,,you loosen the nuts and either you tighten one nut to move the rod or you turn the rod to adjust it then tighten the nut ,,,,,but just be lucky that you can find one,,,,,,,,
    vanner68
    vanner68


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    Post by vanner68 Mon Mar 10, 2014 10:33 am

    I have had to make that block in the past. It's not too difficult.
    Vantasia
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    Post by Vantasia Mon Mar 10, 2014 11:44 am

    donivan65 wrote:Both types are OK,,,,,you loosen the nuts and either you tighten one nut to move the rod or you turn the rod to adjust it then tighten the nut ,,,,,but just be lucky that you can find one,,,,,,,,
    Thanks, as I said, they repop the un-threaded one's for vintage Vette's same looking part, I already ordered one.  
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/151161504360?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

    I did find a threaded NOS GM one on eBay for more $$. I'll see what the original was when I get it apart.  Since its double nutted and the shop manual says to loosen both nuts and then back one to it, I assume its the unthreaded one, I don't think it said to turn the rod to length.  Everyone with one of these vans should take that connection apart and inspect the pin, mines 2/3rd's gone, as bad as that rod in your picture.  I only found it by accident while replacing the fork boot.  BTW, I found a perfect spring from McMaster-Carr industrial supply, 17" overall with about a 3" coil at one end, my stock spring was like a rubber band...LOL


    Last edited by jbass62 on Mon Mar 10, 2014 11:49 am; edited 2 times in total
    vanner68
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    Post by vanner68 Mon Mar 10, 2014 11:47 am

    The end of the rod that goes through through the clutch fork usually has an 1/8" hole in it, it's a good idea to put a washer and cotter pin in there so if the block breaks or the cotter pin on the block comes out, then you don't lose the whole rod. Belt and suspenders, man.
    Vantasia
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    Post by Vantasia Mon Mar 10, 2014 11:51 am

    vanner68 wrote:The end of the rod that goes through through the clutch fork usually has an 1/8" hole in it, it's a good idea to put a washer and cotter pin in there so if the block breaks or the cotter pin on the block comes out, then you don't lose the whole rod. Belt and suspenders, man.
    Van already had that in place. The washer doesn't seat well, wasn't there a steel or cast ball washer that goes there?
    vanner68
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    Post by vanner68 Mon Mar 10, 2014 11:54 am

    Probably, but even a flat washer will prevent the loss of the (likely very hard to find) clutch rod.
    Vantasia
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    Post by Vantasia Mon Mar 10, 2014 12:57 pm

    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Mon Mar 10, 2014 2:55 pm

    The odds are when something breaks, you aint going nowhere, so all the parts will be under the van if they fall off,,,,that looks like a fine thread one,,,but they all work,,,,,get it if it makes you sleep better,,,,,but people have those pieces leftover when they switch to an automatic overdrive transmission,,,,and probably a million pick ups have them still on them ,,,,,,
    Vantasia
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    Post by Vantasia Mon Mar 10, 2014 3:34 pm

    donivan65 wrote:The odds are when something breaks, you aint going nowhere, so all the parts will be under the van if they fall off,,,,that looks like a fine thread one,,,but they all work,,,,,get it if it makes you sleep better,,,,,but people have those pieces leftover when they switch to an automatic overdrive transmission,,,,and probably a million pick ups have them still on them ,,,,,,
    The ball seat is a little worn on mine but previous PO's probably never greased it, I greased it and the rest of the van. The King pins and steering fittings looked like they hadn't been greased in decades, even did the U-joints.
    vanner68
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    Post by vanner68 Mon Mar 10, 2014 4:33 pm

    donivan65 wrote:The odds are when something breaks, you aint going nowhere, so all the parts will be under the van if they fall off,,,,that looks like a fine thread one,,,but they all work,,,,,get it if it makes you sleep better,,,,,but people have those pieces leftover when they switch to an automatic overdrive transmission,,,,and probably a million pick ups have them still on them ,,,,,,
    When mine fell off I was on the freeway. I did not find out until the exit ranp.... Hence the fabrication mentioned earlier... Smile
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Mon Mar 10, 2014 11:40 pm

    I am just saying that I would not be paying $44 for a spare clutch rod just in case I lost mine.....

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