Rear main rope seal replacement

Ok.... What is the CORRECT way to get the rope seal out of my 318??? I used a 2" drywall screw and a pair of vise grips to pull it out so I could spin the new rubber one into place. No more leaky rear main seal.

That sounds as good a way as any. thinking I have started them around with a punch and grabbed 'em with pliers.

Man.... tough crowd... thought I would've got a couple of war stories about these leaky rope seals.

i used a drywall screw too. my friend said i should have used a "chinese handcuff" instead. i dont know what that is.

i welded a sheet metal screw on the end of an old broken screwdriver years ago and still have it today. not much use for it anymore but it worked great. if the seal was real tight i moved the crank a bit while pulling on the screwdriver and it usually rolled right out. same way you would roll in a set of bearings without removing the crank or loosening it off.
chinese handcuff sounds like something from wicked wandas house of pleasure

wicked wanda...its all making sense now...

Chinese handcuff is a wicker like tube. you stick one finger in each side and in theory when you try to pull your fingers out the tube contracts around your fingers not allowing them to escape the tube. what that has to do with a main seal is beyond me.

yes that what it is! i remember now from when i was a kid. i think my friend was feeding me a line

There are Chinese handcuffs made of steel wire.....also known as Kellems in the electrical trade......they are handy for griping wire ends to pull through conduit....would do the same for the rope seal......glad to know someone else has the screwdriver with sheetmetal screw welded on.....made mine in high school auto shop....great memories....

that thing was as handy as a pocket in a shirt in its day. like i said havent used it much recently but i replaced the rear seals on two 440's in a boat where it came in real handy. could only lift the engines about two feet and had to crawl under to remove and replace. theres something about a big block hanging on a temporary tripod in the bilge of a boat thats worrys me by times.
hey steve where in canada are you. if your from quebec you know all about wicked wandas, this place does exsist..........

It helps to rotate the crankshaft as your pulling on the seal, the screw and plyers have always worked for me!

I always used one of those Token advertisers pocket screwdrivers.
I bent the very end on a 45 and used the block as a fulcrum. Walked it out while turning the crank in that direction. Worked it like an old brake adjuster spoon.
Still works after all these years.
Then there is the "which way does the lip of the new neoprene rubber seal face when installed?" question.
It faces IN.
A guy I knew building Mopar Industrial Engines was convinced that the lip faced OUT to keep dust and dirt OUT?? He told me the PCV Valve kept pressure out of the crankcase so it wouldn't leak ????
Had a lot of messy Come-Backs over the years.
At least he never got the old rope seals in wrong.
Then there was this new, fresh rebuild, low mile 225 I bought at a swap meet once, the guy gave up for $80. Said it had one hell of a rear oil leak warmed up. Said the crank was BAD!
Dude put the upper rubber seal in right AND the lower in the bridge piece correct too, but he put the rear bridge piece in backwards.
A new pan gasket and a half- hour of work, I had a DRY, fresh, 225 for my '67.
Ter'