Door locks. Do you have a place, or a guy who can key all 4 the same?

It's time to lock this old girl down. I'm getting ready to do the interior and that includes stereo, speakers, GPS, back up camera, etc.
I have not worried about it up till now, as anything I left in it, that I wanted to protect, I put in my (homemade) lock box console.
I hate carrying keys and I want to carry as few as possible so I'd like to get all 4 the same. It would be cool if the ignition is the same as well but I'm not sure that is possible. (BTW, a little trick I do, which may not be for everyone is I cut the head of the key off so it is even with the tabs on the side of the ignition switch so I don't have to carry an ignition key. )
Unfortunately, there are no locksmiths around here anymore, so I need to buy all 4 as I don't have the door key. I assume all 4 doors were keyed alike. If you guys know a locksmith I could send one of the rear door locks to to make one, that would be cool but, I would still need to buy one rear door lock as it's missing.
Any suggestions??
Thanks guys!!!
Chaz

I don't know how the G-van locks compare to the Econolines, but most locks of that era are similar. Here's an article I did on adapting locks so one key will fit all. Fairly simple to do if you're handy and don't mind working with really small parts:

Rekeying locks

will be watching this post. I'm in the same boat. john

The 1st and 2nd gens are different but they each use the same key for the ignition and the doors. When I went through this on my '66, I got some lock cylinders from some of the guys stashes and had them keyed to match my ignition key.

I can only assume mine is still stock, but the key does not fit both the door and ignition lock. (??) The key is square headed as opposed to hex headed. I'm not sure if that is a determining factor or not. It does still look like this ignition.
I like the tabs on either side of the key. I can cut the head off and stick in the "key part", still be able to turn on the ignition and yet, people can not tell it is in there.
I HOPE i can get a key to fit everything and still keep the stock look on the outside.

Skulptorchaz wrote:
I can cut the head off and stick in the "key part", still be able to turn on the ignition and yet, people can not tell it is in there.

on mine, if I turn it off and pull out the key, I can start it WITHOUT a key! if I turn it farther and remove it, then it locks.

That is the way my '56 Chevy 210 works but unfortunately, not this one.

my '64 uses one key, for all doors and ignition too.

Dang, I guess they changed something on me. I REALLY wish mine did.

I think somewhere along the line, someone replaced your 1st gen ignition switch with a 2nd gen one. You would either have to switch out your ignition switch for a 1st gen one then match your door lock cylinders to it or get a set of 2nd gen cylinders and match them to the ignition switch you have. I have some 2nd gen cylinders around that I bought to see if they would work but they didn't so you can have them if you need them. There has to be a locksmith around you that can change the pins inside unless you want to try it yourself.

I checked the spares I have and I only have the 2nd gen cylinders for the side and back barn doors. I don't have any for the driver and passenger doors.

You can buy a 5 lock key set. Includes same key for ignition, cargo and front doors and a glove box key. Very easy to install. Get them at brothers auto parts.

I bought a similar aftermarket set for a 60s Chevy pickup, from Brothers, I think. Came with the ignition, glovebox lock and 1st Gen-type door handle locks (lock in the handle), all keyed to the same key. I installed them but have three complaints:

- pretty sure the door locks turn the opposite way as the stock ones. That took a little getting used to.
- within a year or two the finish on the door locks started to rust (the cylindrical sleeve).
- the pickup kit doesn’t include any for the cargo doors

So I still had to have my factory cargo door locks re-keyed. Actually, Don took them to a locksmith he knew about.

A little thing about the cargo door locks (which are like all old GM car locks). The stainless “cap” has to be removed to get to the tumblers. They are installed like a bottle cap, crimped all the way around. Most locksmiths don’t have the tool to put the new cap back on that way so they use one that has a couple tabs they bend over. If you look real close, you can see it has slight flat spots where the tabs are. (No one but nitpickers like me will ever notice.)

The front door locks for the pickups have a shaft that is too long. I had to cut about 3/4” off them to make them work in my handles. Not hard to do. I have photos I could post later showing the difference.

Hey guys,
 I'm still working on this. (I got side tracked and had my truck in the shop for awhile)
 I found this and was wanting your opinions.
 https://www.classicindustries.com/product/1964/chevrolet/chevyiinova/parts/tk295.html
 If this will work, (I have no idea if it will) I would have the ignition and barn doors covered and then I guess I'd have to get the front doors re-keyed. (??) BTW, I am missing the whole lock on the back barn doors  so I need one anyway.
 Man I wish someone just made the full set.  
 let me know what ya think. I appreciate it!
 Chaz

P.S. BTW, I went to Classic industries and Brothers and their ignition switch did not look the same. This is what mine looks like. I think I need the electrical party as well. I'm having issues starting it and I replaced the starter. (It will just click at times.)

Thanks Gary.
So, judging from your pix, I guess it seems my ignition is not original. This is a pic of my ignition.
I think it could may actually be the nova ignition, which is fine. I like/want the "tabs" on either side of the key. As I mentioned before, I don't like carrying keys and I can cut the head off of a key and just stick it in there and no one is the wiser.


Now i just have to figure out what it exactly is.
Thanks for all your help!!!!
Chaz