1969 a108 disk brakes

I did do a search and read the previouse posts on this but just wanted to check my info. Before ordering. I emailed scarebird and they told me to order the full size mopar brackets . He said the a100 brackets won't work with the 2500# axel. A post from 2016 stated the a100 brackets were drilled for both axels which has led to my confusion. Anyway the info from scarebird was to go with the full size fry brackets and mount the calipers up front,but no guarantee on interference with the sway bar. Any first hand input would be appreciated before i place an order. Thanks guys.

From what I understand the Scarebird brakes won't work with a A108 2500 axle. The only setup that I know of that works with a A108 is from AAJ brakes. I have a AAJ brakes conversion for my 108 but I have not installed it yet so I do have any first hand information as to how it fits.

Give Roger at AAJ Brakes a call, his # is 503-890-1469. or email at aajbrakes@comcast.net

Keith D

Thanks kieth. I will give him a call. Whatever i go with i will post how it all works out.

Years ago the Scarebird Dodge van conversion plate did contain two patterns, if you look carefully at the picture there are two holes above the lower mounting bolts, those were the holes for the lighter axle. I may be wrong for this is a wag but I suspect Scarebird stopped doing the extra holes for the heavy axle due to complications people had with mounting the caliper and interference with sway bar links. There could be other reasons, but they did fit, took a little modification to the links. Picture is of the left hand side.

Yes i seen posts from 2016 with the combo a100 brackets. Since the latest post i could find was from 2016 i thought i would email them with questions in case something changed with the brackets since then.everything was through email and the answe i got was to use the full size mopar bracket as the a100 brackets won't work. When i questioned that his recommended brackets would work for my 2500# axel with sway bar he said it will work but no guarantee on the interference with the sway bar. At this point i left a message for aaj brakes. At least i will be able to talk to them and get straightforward answers. I will let everyone know how this goes. Thanks.

Talked to roger at aaj brakes today. That's who will get my business. Nice helpful guy. I will post how well the installation goes.

I had the first Scarebird full size style 2500# prototype brackets.
I wanted them because I wanted big brakes, not small car brakes on a van. I also did not want to trim spindle ears (something that another kit I had required).
The brackets worked only with front mounting the caliper (since I sent him a spindle, he didn't know that the drag link would fall right where he put the caliper had you rear mounted it like factory).
Moving the calipers to the front means there is no way the sway bar mounting will work with no modifications. My buddy spent some time modifying the mounts for me, I believe the sway bar still worked.
There is a sleeve for adapting the wheel bearing to the spindle, and it wasn't tight enough to our taste, so we used Permatex sleeve retainer liquid.
One other issue that I noticed much later, is that since we moved the calipers to the front, the hose routing wasn't the greatest (wasn't crossing the spindle line), leading to pinching at some extreme situations (very tight U-Turn).
They do stop well.
Unfortunately my van is now neglected due to other financial obligations. But the brakes did make a huge difference.

I will try to upload a few pics (I have a bunch more if needed).

Hope this helps add more info about the Scarebird brakes. I don't recall what was the issue with AAJ brakes at the time (either use of small brakes or something else), that made me not choose them. Granted this was many-many years ago.







All the best,
Ran

The Scarebird did work with the sway bar on my #2500 axle, it did require making a longer link, about an inch maybe a little more, I used a pair of new Ford F250 or F350 links and shortened them.

Mine are the "C Body" type - Galaxie type rotors, but could very well be that if I reviewed it today using an F350 sway bar link might work. This was all done under the gun of "hours-my-buddy-owed-me"...

There were also some minor clearance issues around the areas here

I just installed the Scarebird 2500lb kit on my A100. I anticipated the sway bar linkage issue after reading about it here. All I did was use some caliper bolts with shorter heads (and actually cut a little bit off of those) and adjusted the steering stops so that steering stopped right as it contacted the link. I don't think it will make much difference, but have not driven it yet.. I can make up some different links or brackets if necessary, but don't feel like it right now.

I used the 71 B van MC. The only thing I am having a slight problem with is that the pedal travel has increased. It is all bled, but pedal moves more then it did. I may simply need to adjust my rear brakes but did not get to that yet either.

The stock 15" steel wheels do not come close to fitting, which I did not expect. Apparently the newer 15" steelies have a larger center (12.62), they may fit but I am not sure enough to buy a set. I may need to go after market...

The wheel thing is what sunk me and now I have to move on to other projects (damn house...).

Mark

Hi Mark, very interested in this thread as I should really uprate the brakes on my a108 camper. Would you be able to list the parts you used for the conversion, giving as much detail as possible, as I’m in the UK so if I order parts from Rockauto for instance, I’ll need to get it right first time!
As for the wheel problem, have you considered a 3 or 5mm spacer plate between wheel and hub? I had to use them to clear disc brakes on my Dart with 14” wheels.
Regards, Arran

Hi Arran,

There is a lot of confusion surrounding the Scarebird disc kits. This is what I have learned while doing the conversion on my 2500# axle:

I have an older SB kit which uses dual bolt pattern brackets.
This kit uses Ford crown vic rotors and chevy 1500 calipers

Apparently, a few years ago SB decided to go with smaller rotors and different calipers, due to wheel fitment issues as I am having. The feeling was that the brakes were too large anyway, so offer a more compact kit with smaller rotors.

I am however happy to have the big brakes, despite the wheel fitment issues I am having. Would I have jumped into this right now knowing I needed new wheels? No. But these things happen and now I have a new set of 15X7 Torq Thrusts on the way (which better fit!!). My 235 70 15 BFG's are brand new and will fit these wheels perfectly so at least I do not have to buy new tires.

I hope this all fits like I hope it will and have done my best to measure everything, but I am bracing myself for another surprise...

Anyway,

The newer kit uses Chevy Citation calipers and not sure on the rotors. I will see about getting some part numbers for you. The SB brackets are very nice.

I had the 11" drums which stopped pretty good, but lots of big hills around here and I often tow a small camper or other trailers, with my Wife and kids in the van so figured the discs would make us atleast a little bit safer.

Yes, I do have some 5mm spacers which will not help.

The original drum brake 15" wheels will not fit any disc brake swap. The barrel of the wheel dips way in towards the small center section.

The newer 15" Mopar steelies probably will not fit using this (early) SB kit either. even with small spacers and caliper grinding. I may be wrong but I was told 12.62 ID on the newer Mopar wheels and that is about .25 too small as far as I can tell. Its hard to measure this stuff with out extra wheels around, there are many variables.

I'll do some digging on those PN's when I get a chance. Hopefully you can order the brackets and shipping will not be too bad for those alone.

Thanks for the quick reply! You’re right about the confusion on the heavy duty axle. I haven’t found a definitive answer anywhere🤔. That’s a real shame that the original wheels won’t fit as I love mine with the chrome hub caps. It would also double the cost of the conversion if I had to buy aftermarket wheels too!
So if I look on the SB website, am I just looking for the plates for a C body?
Thanks, Arran

I have bought the Scarebird brake kit for my A100, but have not yet fitted it, as the calipers and calipers were sent in separate boxes, and the calipers have still not shown up.  I wish he would have told me that before shipping - a single package would have suited me better.
I will happily share my experience with fitting this setup, as soon as I can get the parts it will go together.

Parts are arriving to complete my installation....over the next 2 weeks or so, this should be completed.

Already having issues with the recommended hydraulic hoses.  Also the inner bearing seals are hard to find...RockAuto to the rescue thanks to a local guy with a crossover reference book.

Hi Kiwi,

I imagine it must be more difficult to get these parts in NZ. Yea, I can't recall what it was but I too had some problems getting the correct wheel seals.

So it is winter here and the van is in storage, but I did get the van in the shop to do some brake work a few weeks ago. I noticed last Summer that the rear brakes do not get much pressure and offer very little stopping power (if any). The rear brakes were in decent shape, bled and adjusted properly. I replaced everything anyway and of course the problem persists.

I am now adding a front brake hold off valve to see if that helps. I am still considering adding a combination valve instead, but that would require all new lines yet again. The hold off (metering) valve will be easy to install and should shed some light on the problem. I may also add some 10LB residual valves to the rear, but it does not seem like the wheels cyls retract to far from engagement, especially with all new rear brakes now.

I drove it on my sheet of ice road and would lock the fronts up and with nothing in the rear.

BTW, NZ is beautiful, I was there several years ago and would certainly not mind living there!

Good luck, keep us posted,

Mark

Gileadgarage wrote:Hi Kiwi,

I imagine it must be more difficult to get these parts in NZ. Yea, I can't recall what it was but I too had some problems getting the correct wheel seals.

So it is winter here and the van is in storage, but I did get the van in the shop to do some brake work a few weeks ago. I noticed last Summer that the rear brakes do not get much pressure and offer very little stopping power (if any). The rear brakes were in decent shape, bled and adjusted properly. I replaced everything anyway and of course the problem persists.

I am now adding a front brake hold off valve to see if that helps. I am still considering adding a combination valve instead, but that would require all new lines yet again. The hold off (metering) valve will be easy to install and should shed some light on the problem. I may also add some 10LB residual valves to the rear, but it does not seem like the wheels cyls retract to far from engagement, especially with all new rear brakes now.

I drove it on my sheet of ice road and would lock the fronts up and with nothing in the rear.

BTW, NZ is beautiful, I was there several years ago and would certainly not mind living there!

Good luck, keep us posted,

Mark

Hi Mark,
Thanks for the reply and the kind words about NZ.  Summer time here, and I have no idea what this snow stuff is that you are talking about....

The bearing seals are on the way now from RockAuto - Part number - Centric #41763011 (417.63011) at $1.20 each

I am still trying to get a straight answer out of an Australian company who makes brake hoses.  Already have to change the chassis flare nuts from 3/8-24tpi to metric M10 x 1 to accommodate their female ends.  No biggie...that can be managed.

Hopefully the parts will arrive next week, and I can get moving again.

BTW...I have a cyber friend in Salisbury, VT - he has his own Maple trees.  

Thanks,
Roger

https://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t22405-scarebird-front-disc-kits#263552

Last post...more to come....issues are being worked through