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BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER.... A's, G's & E's


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    250 coil resistor/wire

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    250 coil resistor/wire Empty 250 coil resistor/wire

    Post by Guest Fri May 26, 2017 6:16 am

    On my 69 G10 250,

    The very small yellow wire that is on the pos side of the coil broke. Is this the resistor wire? Is there a separate resistor? Where is it? Can this resistor wire still be purchased?

    My loom is still intact so I can't visually chase the wire. The wiring diagram shows it going to the starter. It's very stiff and small and I cant even get it striped to splice it. I would like to replace the wire but I'm not sure what I'm looking for or where it goes. Is there a resistor on the other end of this wire?

    Thanks,
    panelmanrd
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    Post by panelmanrd Fri May 26, 2017 6:35 am

    if it is the wire that goes to the starter from the coil, there is no
    resistor in this wire, the resistor is in the wire from the ignition
    switch to the coil, the one from the ignition switch should not
    provide power while the engine is cranking, this power comes from
    wire that goes to the starter from the coil, this is where it gets its power
    while cranking, it supplies a higher voltage while cranking than the one
    from the ign switch. hope this helps
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    Post by Guest Fri May 26, 2017 6:57 am

    I'll have to separate the loom and see where it goes. This was the only wire on pos side and 1 wire on neg side going to the distributer. Was running fine but quits running as soon as I let off the key after the wire broke.
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Fri May 26, 2017 1:12 pm

    If you have a test light or voltmeter,,,,see if you get juice at the positive terminal on the coil when you turn on the key,,,,,,,,if not,,,,,,and you dont, see if that purple/orange cloth covered resistor wire is laying around the coil,,,,,then look for a broken wire on the starter solenoid R terminal because it sometimes connects there to get a free ride to the positive side of the coil through the yellow wire,,,,,,,,then wiggle the connector where the wiring loom goes into the doghouse to see if you get power at the positive side of the coil with the key on,,,,,,
    AzDon
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    Post by AzDon Sun May 28, 2017 8:35 am

    If it only runs while cranking, the starter-to-coil wire is intact and you re missing the resistance wire from the key switch...... My recollection is that both wires were fastened to the same terminal end, as delivered from GM.....That wire IS energized during cranking, but does not produce the full battery power needed to fire the engine, so the wire from the starter provides full power while cranking... Once the engine is running, the points-fired system runs at a reduced voltage to preserve the points.....If you convert to HEI, the starter booster wire becomes unnecessary and the resistance wire is replaced with a full-voltage wire....
    You can replace the keyswitch wire with a non-resistance wire and add a ballast resistor to it adjacent to the coil.....

    Doni- I remember that harness connector as a major problem in my 66 van back in the day.... Just reminded me that I want to do something different there next time.....
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    Post by Guest Mon May 29, 2017 1:00 pm

    Thanks guys. Turns out the resistance wire splits into 2 normal wires, one to coil and one to starter.
    There is no wire from the coil to the starter. I found a 69 chevy truck schematic showing the same config. The Van schematic I have says the coil to starter wire is only on GS?

    It's running great again. I'm just trying to understand, hadn't heard of the resistance wire before.
    Tried to find a replacement just to see if it's out there but no luck. Nice to know about the ceramic alternative.

    All this started because I found a nos air cleaner brace that I was missing. Had the stress cracks welded up in the air cleaner, pulled the valve cover and painted everything up. The coil mounts to the same place as the brace and while removing the coil The aged wire Broke off. That's where my confusion set in. The broken wire was not a resistance wire but now I know where mine is.
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    Post by Guest Mon May 29, 2017 1:11 pm

    250 coil resistor/wire Img_4310
    AzDon
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    Post by AzDon Mon May 29, 2017 8:41 pm

    The split should be right at the positive terminal on the coil with the wire running to the starter being full-voltage-hot while cranking and the wire from the keyswitch being reduced voltage (resistance wire).... Previous owners often change things that they don't understand......Yes, resistance wire can be replaced by regular wire with a ballast resistor.... Easy to discard when you change over to HEI....
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    Post by Guest Tue May 30, 2017 10:57 am

    250 coil resistor/wire Coil_w10
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    Post by Guest Tue May 30, 2017 11:02 am

    This schematic is for a 69 chevy truck but, it is the way my van is wired as well. Yes, no telling what has been done in the past. I've only owned it for 1 of it's 48 years.
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Tue May 30, 2017 11:18 am

    Thats the way it works,,,,,,the starter sends 12 volts to the positive side of the coil through the yellow wire until it starts,,,,,then,,, the yellow wire lets the 6 volts from the resistance wire go through it to keep the engine running,,,,,,
    AzDon
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    Post by AzDon Tue May 30, 2017 6:10 pm

    Yes, Thanks Doni......His Schematic shows the keyswitch/resistance wire terminating at that starter lug and both systems using the same wire the rest of the way to the coil..... works the same, so.... GOOD!
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Tue May 30, 2017 7:39 pm

    thats the way it was built to be,,,,,,,HOWEVER,,,,,,,,lots of things happen to these vans over the years so you dont know what you are going to find ,,,,,,,,you kinda have to add WHAT WERE THEY THINKING when they did repairs to our answers,,,,,,,,,,and good old 60's technology and backyard mechanics,,,,,,

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