by dougtappan Sun Aug 21, 2016 2:04 pmhey all, sent my Carter yf to a local carb shop in Mass They charged me 145.00. That was OK cause it looked awesome when I got it back.problem is the engine will not run without the choke not even close to idle.Then the housing that holds the fuel filter started to leak. I used brake line for the engine fuel line. but it will not seal .......Does anyone know if the flair for brake line and fuel may be a different angle?
3 posters
carberator woes
dougtappan- Number of posts : 310
Location : hopkinton ma.
Registration date : 2014-08-19
dougtappan- Number of posts : 310
Location : hopkinton ma.
Registration date : 2014-08-19
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12220
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
Thats probably the only Carter set up like that in the World,,,,,, is the idling problem the same or worst since you sent it to them? Did the gas line leak like that before also? Brake line should be the same,is that new,,,,,unless they changed the inlet filter housing,,,,,are you sure its leaking there, the bowl gasket or the filter housing gasket?
AzDon- Number of posts : 742
Location : Lake Havasu Az
Age : 67
Registration date : 2014-01-20
5 systems in a carb; Choke, Idle circuit, main circuit (venturis), transition circuit (accel pump) and power/economy circuit......
If you MUST use full choke for the vehicle to run, you either have a HUGE vacuum leak that you should be able to hear, or your idle circuit is plugged......What you are doing by using the choke like that is closing off the airflow at the top of the carb and using engine vacuum to draw fuel out of the main venturi system.....
I've always hated carb rebuilders, because they charge a lot of money to do simple work that they will ultimately take no responsibility for because making it run right is not part of their deal.....They will say that the first sudden rush of fuel changed the float level, or that your fuel lines are dirty or a half dozen other excuses why your vehicle's condition or your mechanical abilities are suspect.....
After all, if you knew more about carburetors than they do, you'd do it yourself, right?....
I don't have any specific input about that particular carb, but my recollection of rochester one and two barrels is that they are pretty simple and easy to understand and therefore troubleshoot..... I use Holley double-pumpers because I fully understand how they work and what is wrong when they don't.........I'm starting to transition into EFI, so the learning curve starts over again for me....
My best advice is to learn everything you can about how your stuff works and do as much of your own work as possible cause if you want something done right, doing it yourself is your best bet!
If you MUST use full choke for the vehicle to run, you either have a HUGE vacuum leak that you should be able to hear, or your idle circuit is plugged......What you are doing by using the choke like that is closing off the airflow at the top of the carb and using engine vacuum to draw fuel out of the main venturi system.....
I've always hated carb rebuilders, because they charge a lot of money to do simple work that they will ultimately take no responsibility for because making it run right is not part of their deal.....They will say that the first sudden rush of fuel changed the float level, or that your fuel lines are dirty or a half dozen other excuses why your vehicle's condition or your mechanical abilities are suspect.....
After all, if you knew more about carburetors than they do, you'd do it yourself, right?....
I don't have any specific input about that particular carb, but my recollection of rochester one and two barrels is that they are pretty simple and easy to understand and therefore troubleshoot..... I use Holley double-pumpers because I fully understand how they work and what is wrong when they don't.........I'm starting to transition into EFI, so the learning curve starts over again for me....
My best advice is to learn everything you can about how your stuff works and do as much of your own work as possible cause if you want something done right, doing it yourself is your best bet!
AzDon- Number of posts : 742
Location : Lake Havasu Az
Age : 67
Registration date : 2014-01-20
Many people consider carburetors to be totally mysterious, but the simplest way to understand them is to consider that they are nothing more than a device that uses engine vacuum to extract a measured amount of fuel, but it also feeds a supplemental pressurized shot into the vacuum stream to fulfill transitional fuel requirements while the carb transitions from the idle circuit to the main venturis..... Think of it as a sort of a liquid-dispensing trumpet in reverse (it is sucked rather than blown), playing different notes to increasing fuel requirements, and which plays beautiful music to the engine when operating correctly and in proper tune.....
Electronic fuel injection uses multiple sensors to analyze vacuum signal, exhaust gas, engine temp, load factors, etc.... Processes the info in the ECM and then "pulses" pressurized fuel into the vacuum stream, metered by "pulse widths".....Far more complicated and harder to troubleshoot, but still mimic-ing the functions of a carb....
So here are some things to check..... Start by looking down the carb while pulling the throttle linkage through it's range to see if the accelerator pump squirts..... It should start squirting from the very first movement of the throttle arm....After that, remove the carb, and take out the fuel bung holding the sintered bronze filter and spring and inspect for dirt..... If there are grains of anything here, you are likely to have internal clogging issues from the float valve down and may need to open the carb up and blow all the passages out with carb cleaner spray..... Next, Look carefully at how the base of that carb matches up to the gasket and how they both match up to the manifold, as the design of one or the other might not cover each other completely, hence, a vacuum leak. Make sure that the mating surfaces are straight and flat and that the gasket doesn't block any passages that the carb needs to operate.... ANY LOSS OF VACUUM ANYWHERE WILL INHIBIT THE VACUUM SIGNAL FROM DRAWING ENOUGH FUEL (similar to sucking through a straw with a hole in it) Make sure the carb base is screwed tight to the body. Examine around the base and make sure there are no open ports or plugs or caps missing......Moving on to the assumption that the idle circuit is blocked, remove the idle screw and (while wearing safety glasses or goggles) spray carb cleaner into the hole and make sure it comes out of a port (or ports) below the closed throttle plate and also out the air-bleed passage in the upper air horn area....
If you have to go into the carb, I would recommend buying a carb kit, which will include an exploded diagram, and try to get some basic carburetion books and use the exploded diagram and the disassembled carb to familiarize yourself with how the thing works and look for potential mistakes in how it was re-assembled the last time...... It is also possible that you can find useful info online by googling that carb number..... Good Luck!
Electronic fuel injection uses multiple sensors to analyze vacuum signal, exhaust gas, engine temp, load factors, etc.... Processes the info in the ECM and then "pulses" pressurized fuel into the vacuum stream, metered by "pulse widths".....Far more complicated and harder to troubleshoot, but still mimic-ing the functions of a carb....
So here are some things to check..... Start by looking down the carb while pulling the throttle linkage through it's range to see if the accelerator pump squirts..... It should start squirting from the very first movement of the throttle arm....After that, remove the carb, and take out the fuel bung holding the sintered bronze filter and spring and inspect for dirt..... If there are grains of anything here, you are likely to have internal clogging issues from the float valve down and may need to open the carb up and blow all the passages out with carb cleaner spray..... Next, Look carefully at how the base of that carb matches up to the gasket and how they both match up to the manifold, as the design of one or the other might not cover each other completely, hence, a vacuum leak. Make sure that the mating surfaces are straight and flat and that the gasket doesn't block any passages that the carb needs to operate.... ANY LOSS OF VACUUM ANYWHERE WILL INHIBIT THE VACUUM SIGNAL FROM DRAWING ENOUGH FUEL (similar to sucking through a straw with a hole in it) Make sure the carb base is screwed tight to the body. Examine around the base and make sure there are no open ports or plugs or caps missing......Moving on to the assumption that the idle circuit is blocked, remove the idle screw and (while wearing safety glasses or goggles) spray carb cleaner into the hole and make sure it comes out of a port (or ports) below the closed throttle plate and also out the air-bleed passage in the upper air horn area....
If you have to go into the carb, I would recommend buying a carb kit, which will include an exploded diagram, and try to get some basic carburetion books and use the exploded diagram and the disassembled carb to familiarize yourself with how the thing works and look for potential mistakes in how it was re-assembled the last time...... It is also possible that you can find useful info online by googling that carb number..... Good Luck!
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12220
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
If you got that gas leak under control, take some carburetor cleaner and spray down into the carburetor while it is running bad and see if the engine runs better,,,,,,,if it does, start spraying down the outside of the carb and on the intake manifold and gasket, see if you find a spot that speeds up the engine, whick would mean the engine is sucking air,,,,,,,I would be looking at the lower bowl gasket, they could of put the wrong one on it,,,,,that is my favorite carburetor,,,,,,,but see if you find a spot with that carb cleaner on the OUTSIDE of the carb that makes the engine run better.....
dougtappan- Number of posts : 310
Location : hopkinton ma.
Registration date : 2014-08-19
Ya Donnie I'm using a cable instead of the rods and bellcranks mainly because the original gas peddle area was rotted away.I'm bettin the idle circuit is clogged and will try your idea shortly
AzDon- Number of posts : 742
Location : Lake Havasu Az
Age : 67
Registration date : 2014-01-20
Yes! If you spray around the outside of the carb and the RPM picks up, you have just found a vacuum leak!