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Rear Sway Bar Options

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oldhornjunkie

Number of posts : 44
Location : Bucks County, PA
Age : 36
Registration date : 2016-04-02

Rear Sway Bar Options

Post by oldhornjunkie on Sun Apr 17, 2016 4:31 pm

I have a '70 G20 with a 12 Bolt rear. I'd like to add a sway bar to help it with wheel hop. I don't know what I could yank one off of to be a least painless install. I'm thinking maybe one off a Ford Explorer or maybe a Suburban/Yukon.

Anyone have any photos they'd like to share of something they made up?
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donivan65
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Number of posts : 11431
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12

Re: Rear Sway Bar Options

Post by donivan65 on Sun Apr 17, 2016 4:37 pm

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oldhornjunkie

Number of posts : 44
Location : Bucks County, PA
Age : 36
Registration date : 2016-04-02

Re: Rear Sway Bar Options

Post by oldhornjunkie on Sun Apr 17, 2016 5:06 pm

I can find that, 3rd Gen Camaro/Firechicken! Interesting!


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donivan65
Governor
Governor

Number of posts : 11431
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12

Re: Rear Sway Bar Options

Post by donivan65 on Sun Apr 17, 2016 5:32 pm



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oldhornjunkie

Number of posts : 44
Location : Bucks County, PA
Age : 36
Registration date : 2016-04-02

Re: Rear Sway Bar Options

Post by oldhornjunkie on Sun Apr 17, 2016 7:18 pm

I should service the rear first...


Before Rust Converter and before I cleaned it. That crap on the pumpkin cover is under coating. Not Grease.. Well its not all grease.. and the rear is very full. The 10 bolt is a little skinnier tubes but I can get the larger U-Bolts from the Trailer parts place I know.




This was Wet with Rust Converter. I did this while I had the tank out to seal it. and replace the sending unit.



Doing Shocks while the gas tank is out makes it go REALLY Fast. LOL

I got a gallon of eastwood Rust converter for $50 bucks at their store. It had dirt and paint on the bottle so it was half price. I didn't care about the appearance of the bottle...

Funny thing is all my Rotted areas are where they undercoated. Where it was left bare it was fine. Since this product is a chemical change to the metal not a paint it doesn't let wat get under it. They use this stuff on off shore oil rigs. Its good for 5 years on a oil rig exposed to Salt water and Hurricanes. I shot 2/3rds of the bottom of my van in about a half hour with the cheapie $10 Horrible Freight gravity feed gun. I'm just trying to slow what already started. I need to pull off the bottom valance panel and do the rest.

But the Sway bar in the front after replacing the bushings and making end links. Drilling out the front sway bar bushing bolts and re-tapping the holes was a real treat. I kind of expected that. Those bushing and end link make a BIG BIG improvement for front end stability.

I'll see if I can get one off the Firechicken at the self serve yard. Once the car is in the air I should be able to yank it off in maybe 30-40 minutes with battery tools.
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oldhornjunkie

Number of posts : 44
Location : Bucks County, PA
Age : 36
Registration date : 2016-04-02

Re: Rear Sway Bar Options

Post by oldhornjunkie on Mon Apr 18, 2016 9:17 am

Well that was a waste of energy. Bar won't fit around the 12 bolt pumpkin.

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Vantasia

Number of posts : 1371
Location : New Jersey
Age : 63
Registration date : 2013-08-18

Re: Rear Sway Bar Options

Post by Vantasia on Mon Apr 18, 2016 11:57 am

oldhornjunkie wrote:I should service the rear first...


Before Rust Converter and before I cleaned it. That crap on the pumpkin cover is under coating. Not Grease.. Well its not all grease.. and the rear is very full. The 10 bolt is a little skinnier tubes but I can get the larger U-Bolts from the Trailer parts place I know.




This was Wet with Rust Converter. I did this while I had the tank out to seal it. and replace the sending unit.



Doing Shocks while the gas tank is out makes it go REALLY Fast. LOL

I got a gallon of eastwood Rust converter for $50 bucks at their store. It had dirt and paint on the bottle so it was half price. I didn't care about the appearance of the bottle...

Funny thing is all my Rotted areas are where they undercoated. Where it was left bare it was fine. Since this product is a chemical change to the metal not a paint it doesn't let wat get under it. They use this stuff on off shore oil rigs. Its good for 5 years on a oil rig exposed to Salt water and Hurricanes. I shot 2/3rds of the bottom of my van in about a half hour with the cheapie $10 Horrible Freight gravity feed gun. I'm just trying to slow what already started. I need to pull off the bottom valance panel and do the rest.

A lot of the bare areas where left that way because they were "galvanized" from the factory I believe....

But the Sway bar in the front after replacing the bushings and making end links. Drilling out the front sway bar bushing bolts and re-tapping the holes was a real treat. I kind of expected that. Those bushing and end link make a BIG BIG improvement for front end stability.

I'll see if I can get one off the Firechicken at the self serve yard. Once the car is in the air I should be able to yank it off in maybe 30-40 minutes with battery tools.
avatar
oldhornjunkie

Number of posts : 44
Location : Bucks County, PA
Age : 36
Registration date : 2016-04-02

Re: Rear Sway Bar Options

Post by oldhornjunkie on Mon Apr 18, 2016 12:16 pm

I might be able to use the bar still if I make a longer bracket to hold it away from the axle tubes. Maybe I can do a spacer or something.

I know that some of the metal is galvanized. but I've seen some entire vans that were literally melted in the rain because the undercoating failed and water just let the metal explode.

Vantasia I think I saw your van before around Edgely in Bristol Twp. There was a white van like that floating around levittown area for a couple years and I just stopped seeing it. I figured it got sold, or the owner moved.
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Digz

Number of posts : 3720
Location : United States Six Lakes MI
Registration date : 2008-05-17

Re: Rear Sway Bar Options

Post by Digz on Mon Apr 18, 2016 7:32 pm

I have one to yet put on mine also. Also a 12 bolt. hadn't done anything but hold it up to it yet, but I did have to get larger U bolts for the larger axle tube and alter those holes some. Guess we'll see how it works out.

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