Disc brake proportioning valve ?

Those of you that have switched to disc brakes. Did you install a proportioning valve ? If so what valve did you use ? I've got almost everything to install Scotties/ Dakota disc brake conversion.
Can I just use a Summit adjustable proportioning valve?  Works on my 1946 Dodge pickup street rod.

,,,you definately need an adjustable valve to cut down and delay the pressure to the rear shoes to allow the disks to come on 1st, then the rears, to prevent them from locking up...

I used one off a 1977 Dodge pickup on my 1941 International. Im going to use ones off the early ram pickups, 1981-1993 as I slowly convert my fleet of A100s over. I would imagine any disc / drum parts truck in the yard can work. My guess get one cheap at the local junk yard.

Would it matter if the proportioning valve were from a truck/van that had power brakes, and you installed it onto a non power brake vehicle ?

for unknown reasons mitch who you met last year at norwalk  needed the p. valve on his 64. BUT  scottie and myself did not need one. the master clynder we used   should have it built in to the mc.
in 73/74/ these vans had front disc brakes and  drum brakes  in the rear, but they never had a booster , meaning it had disc brakes but it did not have power brakes.

when you start make sure you bench bleed the mc. also fill the calipers with the bleeder at 12 oclock. let them sit over night to get the air out.

Hey Dix, have you ever checked to see if there is a difference between a Power and Manual master cylinder disk brake system on a 2nd Gen Dodge van,,,,,,,,,like master, caliper and wheel cylinder bores, drum and brake shoe sizes,,,,,

I did not Scottie did all the leg work on this and i give him all the credit.
we used the same master cylinder that scarbird disc brakes conversion calls out for.
And i believe scarbird does not call out for a proportioning valve
i do know once the booster was added the master cylinder part numbers did change,
scottie did say it was all taken care of at the master cylinder.

The master cylinder that I bought Is a Cardone 10-1572M. Which is for 1972 and up Dodge B100 van, with manual brakes.

Different bore sizes put out different pressures,,,,,,,disks and drums run on different pressures, thats where a proportioning valve comes in,,,,,,,,there are metering valves also installed to prevent low brake pedal,,,,,,so see what you get,,,,,,,,with all these different pieces,,,,,,

If the early dodge B-van ran the disc up front drums in the back with out a proportioning valve my guess is the metering valves are in the master cylinder the wheel cylinders are the same from 64 thru 69, The early b-van did not have a portioning valve, The early dodge B-van mc was about 1/3 larger in size

,,,,,sometimes it takes a few years to get things right,,,,,to fix problems that show up after the vehicles are on the road awhile,,,,,,,,but see if the van stops quickly,,,,and straight,,,,,,rear wheels dont lock up,,,,brake pedal dont go to the floor,,,,,,,

scottie and i have been running the system for 5 years with no problems at all longest run was to bakers last year 6 1/2 hours each way.

are they vans or pick ups,,,,,,, the 1st Ford and Chevys  used big hunks of steel  weights on top of the gas tanks to keep the rear brakes from skidding,,,,,

My 64 A100 pickup has a large piece of what looks to be cast iron weight . It is factory mounted behind the gas tank, near the rear valance pan. Looks heavy.

I think some vehicles with manual front discs/rear drum and no proportioning valve are balanced by line size and/or different size rear wheel cylinders. Seems hard to get it right like this.

I definitely will install a PV when I do front disc swap. I have the dual chamber MC in it already and it is working fine with drums for now.

Some say it will not stop faster with disc, but I think it depends on how strong your legs are!

I am mainly going to disc for reduced fade and better braking down long/steep hills. The drums just don't handle that as well. I have 11" fronts and still get some fade on long descents (when heavy or towing), even with a lot of engine braking and planning ahead.
Makes me wonder how the 10" brakes do.

The main reason that I'm going to Disc brakes is, my 64 only has a single MC, and my front drums like to pick which direction they want to go when I stop. I do not have any problems with stopping distance. But then again I plan ahead..one day I will not be able to plan for something unforeseen. I do have 10" drums at this point. Looks like I won't be able to change things out till sometime after November.

,,,our Chevys have 9 1/2" drums,,,,,,a single line master cylinder,,,,,and,,,,,,,,old brake lines and hoses are kinda risky,,,,,,, you probably would not survive a front end crash,,,,,,disk brakes require more pressure to operate,,,,,,,after a while you get used to them,,,,,,press harder,,,,,start braking sooner,,,
so its a good thing,,,,,,,but at least change out that single line master cylinder, hoses and lines,,,,,

So what is a good choice in swapping out the single MC(like in my 64) with a dual MC, if you are not converting to front disks at the same time, but want to later?

Dawgboy wrote:So what is a good choice in swapping out the single MC(like in my 64) with a dual MC, if you are not converting to front disks at the same time, but want to later?

Go to rockauto.com and look up a 1967 dodge A100. In 1967 dodge changed from a single master cylinder..to a dual master cylinder. And all still had drum brakes. But if you change to front disc's at a later time..you'll have to change the master cylinder again !!

The pig iron on the back of our a100 pickups were to keep the ass down when stopping. Yas its heavy over 100 lbs. The vans did not have them. 1967 was a year the goverment made changes to the auto industry. They eliminated the small back windows on pickups and made all auto manufactures put dual master cylinders in all new cars and trucks.