Rhino lining

I've got a 68 108, with some decent amount of rusting on the inside due to a leaky roof. I'd say that 70% percent is mostly surface rust, but there are a few spots on the dog house, front floor board, and behind the driver's seat that is rusted through. The worst being the spot behind the drivers seat, rust hole with some sponginess (about a 14" x 14" patch with new sheet metal). Now, when I bought the van, the previous owner gave me a couple cans of some rattle can that is supposed to encapsulate the rust.

I'm wondering if I wire wheel the rust, ospho, then lay some glass in the holes, and I rhino line the entire floor, firewall to rear door, will that work the same as the fancy rattle can with the rust? I've never worked with the rhino liner, just wondering if this would work as a cheaper alternative to replacing the sheet metal. I plan on laying 1/4" plywood on the floor anyways, just want to sure up the beet metal first.


If anyone has any better ideas, I'm all ears.

I would use 1/2" plywood

Yeah, 1/2" does sound a lot better. I started thinking about the walls while I was typing. The old noodle was doing too much at once!

I plan to do my roof in cedar the strips they use in closets maybe the walls to over Styrofoam insulation and strip's of 1x4 instead of plywood

Yeah, I was just reading another thread on here dealing with insulation choices. I see some people go with the pink glass, some with styrofoam, and other with the bubble stuff. I live in Virginia, and my old man had a 68 back in the early 70's when he was in high school. He used the pink stuff. It worked well for him. I'm guessing the weather and humidity really play a factor in the type of insulation. The guy I bought the van from had squares of the drop ceiling board in the van. I ripped all of that out. Figured I'd start completely fresh.

I was also tossing around the idea of using some luon.

you should read insulation under interiors

The spray can rust killer seems to work okay if you remove as much of the loose stuff as possible first. Glass over rust scale will eventually cut loose. As much new metal as you can would help it in the long run. Clean Patch and Protect it as much as you can. The spray can bedliner stuff I have used seems pretty tough, a couple coats makes a pretty good seal. I'd run this out to the sidewalls and up a little to help with moisture. 1/2" ply would be good if you are attaching more interior to it. Insulation is almost a matter of opinion and depends on what you are doing for interior panels. Also the exterior color will make a huge difference on what will hold up. A ton of sun generated heat on the metal will cook a lot of adhesives, not sure on the plastics in some of the bubble stuff. We do not get a lot of reports back from folks who have went back in to do repairs and see the long term results. Some of these products are fairly new also and not time tested. I personally have run into a small amount of mold by having the window doors sealed up to tight. Not even insulated but the natural breathing gathered moisture on the interior panel edges. I live in Michigan so we don't get the super hot days but a fair amount of humidity in the warmer months. My opinion on the insulation is to minimize it, a little goes a long ways and leave room for the air in the sidewalls and roof to circulate and skip the doors or use the interior panels to help those out. I run a 1/4" of closed cell foam under vinyl on 1/8' ply/paneling and here it does just fine. It's 20* out today and I will be driving it down to the shop and expect to stay toasty warm.