Auto transmission filter and oil replacement help

Hey.

first topic. I just picked up my new baby, an '69 A108 with 318 engine and an auto tranny. She runs for the first 5 mins or so and once it warms up close to idle, it would go no where (like if it was in Neutral and you give it gas). The tranny looks original. This is what I think. she needs a new tranny filter. if that didn't do it. rebuild it's.
This is a VV that I really care about and don't wanna f'up.
can I get some help about how to change the filter?
and if my problem with the car not moving seems fimalier to you, please share your thoughts.

Thanks all.

forget the filter -have the tranny looked at !! Except =1st. Verify there is fluid in the tranny=assuming it IS?? an Automatic?? Likely is. fire the engine =check trans fluid level & go from there? is it full?? if so is the fluid burned? check that the linkage from shifter is actually hooked up to the trans shift lever on side of trans??

Remember to check fluid level in neutral.There will almost a two quart difference between park and neutral.Do this first.

Welcome! Zappa avatar is cool.

As said, check the fluid. at idle in Neutral. Also make sure there is a kickdown (generic name) or Throttle Pressure (correct Mopar name) linkage attached and operating.

Simply changing the fluid can cause a transmission to go from sick to dead. But since yours is already critical provided the level is okay, you can give it a try. It is pretty rare that a fluid and filter change will bring one back. It's often worn seals and friction parts that cause this. Those require disassembly and replacement.

To replace the fluid and filter
Park it and allow to cool.
Get a big drain pan and/or a transmission drain adapter.

Since there is no drain plug on the trans, you must remove the pan while it is still full of fluid (MESSY!).
Remove the pan bolts and pan. I'd suggest tying rags around your wrists to keep the fluid from running into your armpits while removing these items.

The debris in the bottom of the pan is an indication of trans health. Try to keep the pan horizontal. Tilt it just enough to drain most of the fluid.
If possible, take the pan to a nearby trans shop so they can look at it for you. There will be metallic particles and little mounds of friction material on the bottom. Some is normal; too much is a death sentance. If this is not possible, look for a good you tube video.


The filter is held in with 3 screws. All 3 screws go into the valve body which is aluiminum. Do not overtighten! Also do not worry about little nuts coming loose inside.


There is a small gasket where the filter mates to the valve body. If this is in good shape and stuck to the valve body, leave it alone. If it's damaged, carefully remove it. This often requires a razor blade or scraper against the aluminum. DO NOT gouge or scar the surface!


Wipe off all surfaces with a lint-free towel. You do not want any junk inside the trans.
Remove any pan gasket from the trans case. Clean the pan completely. Inspect the flange for any damage and for flatness.

Install the filter. Better pan gaskets have a few smaller holes so you can insert bolts to hold it in place, then raise the pan and start the bolts. Get them all started before tightening. Do not overtighten.

Add 3.5 quarts of fluid down the dipstick tube using a funnel. Have at least 2 more quarts handy. Make sure it's Dextron.
Start the engine with the trans in neutral. While holding the brake, shift through all positions including 1st. Return to Neutral and check the fluid level. You will probably have to repeat this a few times since the tube is coated with fluid from filling. Make sure to check both sides of the stick and only use the lower reading!

Welcome to VV!!!

If you are going to service it.Look in a service manual and adjust the bands and linkage also.

also =verify the driveshaft is there & hooked up??????????????? 

I think he's saying it drives for 5 min then stops moving...

Thanks a lot guys. truly appreciate the help and the tips.
I'm glad I finally got to join this community.

A100 Wrench wrote:If you are going to service it.Look in a service manual and adjust the bands and linkage also.

I'd love to get my hands on one of those.
is there a pdf copy online that i can download or buy it some where?
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I took this picture and correct me if i'm wrong.
the green circle is the transmission fluid, which I should be using Dex merc for it.
the red circle, is what I think is the power steering pump. (?) and i'm not sure what kind of fluid should go in there. (it's dry!!)
the picture:

Wow ! ,I have never seen Air Cond. and Power Steering on the same van.I have first Dibbs if you ever want to get rid of either.I would love that set up working on my '68 P/U!

both can use tranny fluids !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ill also say - i am not sure of the typr tranny fluid that chrysler spec's?? maybe ford or GM?? i usually always use GM in everything here as it has better lube propertys . The p s pumps have their own type fluids yet as usual more expensive & in lesser quanitys too- yet i always just use same trans fluids in the pumps too!

Green = Dextron. It's not usually a problem with GM or Chrysler to add Ford. It's got different friction modifiers and some guys will change over to Ford fluid for harder, firmer shifts. The damage happens when you put GM/Mopar fluid into a Ford. They slip until they fry!

This is all old stuff from the 80s and back. There have been at least 2 major changes since then in formulations. A lot of new fluid will even work in both according to the label.

Chrysler came out with ATF+4 in the mid-80s and messed up on some of the manuals. This caused a bunch of the failures that gave the FWD transmissions such a bad name. Don't get me wrong, they were still not great, but pouring in the wrong fluid killed a bunch of them too.

I've poured plenty of ATF into P/S systems. There is a specific fluid for them. If the system really is dry, I'd try ATF. It is cheaper in bulk and a dry system is a leaking system. The assist systems with the ram are notorious for leaks at the shaft, the hoses, and the ram ends. The pumps can go bad too.

Please post some pics of the parts if you can. These are rare as said.

Dude, Love the avatar!