VintAGE-Vans

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BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER.... A's, G's & E's


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dix
campin'fool 2
ndjarrett
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    Seam Sealer

    ndjarrett
    ndjarrett


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    Post by ndjarrett Sun Apr 21, 2013 5:20 pm

    Well, spent day on the GMC today ripping out seam sealer on roof and patching little holes and one big duck taped hole. I also patched some rocker panels. Who ever painted this darned thing just put 1/4" of bond right over rust and dirt and what ever else (bastard). Anyways what should I use for seam sealer around the roof? Are there different kinds, is one better than the others? Or is there something I could get at Home Depot that would provide a better longer lasting seal?
    campin'fool 2
    campin'fool 2


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    Post by campin'fool 2 Sun Apr 21, 2013 5:28 pm

    For roof drip-rail gutters I use 3M self leveling. It works great sets up nice and flat.

    Joel
    dix
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    Post by dix Sun Apr 21, 2013 5:35 pm

    I agree 3m is always been a standard that every one else tries to follow. no homey depo junk.


    Last edited by dix on Mon Apr 22, 2013 2:30 pm; edited 1 time in total
    Digz
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    Post by Digz Sun Apr 21, 2013 6:38 pm

    And smooth it out after you put it on. I found some on the 64 while I was messing with the wing that looks like bird$*** that I am going to have to redo.
    mikeysly
    mikeysly


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    Post by mikeysly Mon Apr 22, 2013 4:19 am

    Are you guys talking about the top edge of the roof or on the side just under the drip rails? My top side is fine but but just under the drip rails looks like small beads of some kind of caulk is brittle and peeling off in places. Also, if you're prepping the top of the roof for paint and there is special stuff in the drip rails, how do you prep without messing it up?
    HandiVanMan
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    Post by HandiVanMan Mon Apr 22, 2013 4:58 am

    It goes under the drip rails and also at other seems.
    campin'fool 2
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    Post by campin'fool 2 Mon Apr 22, 2013 6:56 am

    I was thinking drip-rail but after re-reading I guess the question is the lower seam.
    I use 3M heavy body seam sealer on other seams. I put 1" masking tape either side of the seam, run the bead then shape it with a filler spreader. If it is an indented seam I use one of the corners of the spreader.

    Joel
    ndjarrett
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    Post by ndjarrett Mon Apr 22, 2013 7:53 am

    Actually I was asking about the top of the drip rail. :-)
    campin'fool 2
    campin'fool 2


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    Post by campin'fool 2 Mon Apr 22, 2013 10:39 am

    Just to be clear on this Neal, could you post a picture of the area?

    Joel
    ndjarrett
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    Post by ndjarrett Mon Apr 22, 2013 11:07 am

    OK, later this evening.
    dix
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    Post by dix Mon Apr 22, 2013 2:37 pm

    if it's the rain gutter use 3m self leveling if it's under the gutter were the side walls run up to the gutter follows Joel's 3m heavy body seam filler suggestion


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    ndjarrett
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    Post by ndjarrett Mon Apr 22, 2013 2:54 pm

    Yup rain gutter...so I used wrong terms tongue
    campin'fool 2
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    Post by campin'fool 2 Mon Apr 22, 2013 3:12 pm

    I think the 3M self leveling product number is 8307. Check around there may be other brands out there at a better price. I like 3M but on the other hand they don't pay me to pitch their stuff! Good luck.

    Joel
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Mon Apr 22, 2013 3:21 pm

    Seam Sealer Repair44
    mikeysly
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    Post by mikeysly Tue Apr 23, 2013 4:18 am

    If you want to prep your roof for paint, how do you prep the rain gutters so as not to mess them up?
    dix
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    Post by dix Tue Apr 23, 2013 1:32 pm

    most of the time the 40 plus year old stuff had lost it's life and has some cracks of lifting or shrinkage. so what i did was bought a heavy duty wire wheel on a 4 1/2 in grinder and removed every thing . and then replaced it with the 3m products.let it cure before painting.


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    campin'fool 2
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    Post by campin'fool 2 Tue Apr 23, 2013 2:54 pm

    Exactly what dix said.
    Though many of these vans have been re-painted few have been restored. The old sealer should be removed. Even if you can't see it yet, you'll end up finding rust under it at some point.
    The wire wheel is the main (and cheapest) tool for this job. Other tools you'll want handy are a screwdriver (tap gently with a body hammer down the channel) and a dental pick (with the hook on the end).
    Wear eye protection with all the tools above and for gods sake pack a lunch, the time the job takes FAR exceeds the entertainment value.

    Joel
    dix
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    Post by dix Tue Apr 23, 2013 6:11 pm

    well put Joel.


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