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BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER.... A's, G's & E's


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    Econoline PU 250ci oil pan dilema

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    Post by Guest Fri Jan 27, 2012 1:35 pm

    What to do?
    I've made some modifications to accomodate the 250ci into this 61 E100 P/U but have created another dilema to correct.
    The oil pan and drag link (I-beam looks ok) look to be too close and will hit during suspension compression.

    Is there an aftermarket drop linkage or can I get away with modifying the oil pan? Is the oil sump pick-up more to the rear of the pan...I hope?

    I doubt re-arching the leafs will get me much clearance.

    Ideas/options?

    Econoline PU 250ci oil pan dilema 01151213
    RodStRace
    RodStRace


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    Post by RodStRace Fri Jan 27, 2012 2:05 pm

    You should be able to modify the pan. I'd mark it for around a half inch clearance, then pull it off. You may be able to cut it then flip the part you cut off and turn it around to create the clearance. Weld it back up and make sure the pickup clears, then install.
    Warning! brake cleaner and probably carb cleaner releases nasty gasses when exposed to flame. Don't use these on stuff you are going to weld!
    Twinpilot001
    Twinpilot001


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    Post by Twinpilot001 Fri Jan 27, 2012 2:06 pm

    [i]someone here will be exact with this 4 ya - i keep thinking a 4 x 4 pan or a front sump pan with extended pickup?/all std. ford parts - is there a ford only salvage yard near -they will know.
    66ThunderVan
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    Post by 66ThunderVan Sun Feb 12, 2012 5:37 pm

    Do you have the original engine? If so, just swap the pan and pick up from the 170. From the pic, that pan will hit the tie rod.
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    Old Skool
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    Post by Old Skool Sun Feb 12, 2012 9:32 pm

    I AM guessing that you installed the motor too far forward however you installed it???
    The 250 motor only uses a large bell, and there were not 240 transmissions that used a donout mount. Also, you're early had no hump in the back of the doghouse for bellhousing clearance. The 250 motor is taller than a 170 because of its longer stroke.
    Also, it is long been discussed that with a 250 you REALLY NEED a full late cross member using Maverick motor mounts.
    SO,,,, MY QUESTION FIRSTLY IS,, HOW DID YOU PUT THE MOTOR IN??? If you used the under tranny transmission (more than likely) with the long tail stock then for sure you are battling a short drive shaft also. Which would work right in line of the engine too far forward??
    vic
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    Post by Guest Mon Feb 13, 2012 8:58 am

    thanks guys for all the ideas and comments.

    Brief history:
    basically this E100 was a basket case from the get go. And I've been chasing one non-conformity issue to the next. In my gallery, you can see the photos of my 'handy-work'. But in short here is what i've been presented with and the choices I've made. Supposedly, this E100 had at one time a V8 installed, doghouse mutilated as well as the engine compartment to make it fit. I picked up a sweet deal on the 250 and C4 as a package deal. I thought the 250 mounting points would match up to the crossmember(Nope). Moved the engine forward enough to be able to suspend the C4 with the previous owners makeshift crossmember (if you want to calll it that) see photos in gallery. At the very least I was able to utilize the driveshaft without modifying it. With the motor mounted forward, this then forced the relocation of the radiator, slightly forward, as well.

    Granted, the motor mounts are not exact, but they get the job done.

    So I think my next step will be to get this oil pan modified by a fab shop.

    vic, in order for me to correct my crossmenber, where can I find a full late cross member using Maverick motor mounts. Are there pix on line here int he forum I could reference?
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    Old Skool
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    Post by Old Skool Mon Feb 13, 2012 9:12 am

    Big time over loaded right now, so will try to do it real quick until later on.... whew, everyone wants their parts can u imagine that? LOL
    Perhaps here I go again, but it seems to me that what we need to do is get it on the right path if it isn't already, which is what it sounds like.
    If it takes making a longer drive shaft and changing location, then that's what it will take. If you decide that that is not what you want to do, I will try to help, but do not like doing things not correctly, so really don't want any part of one of those,, hope you understand.
    Its unfortunate that you have bumped into ANOTHER ONE OF THESE,,,,, I get them all the time, two here that started like yours may well be??
    I can coach you through it all and STOP all the monkey motions,,,that's what I do.
    I will try to get back to this forum and your post tonight, The front of the oil pan NEEDS TO BE FURTHER back, and it helps to know that it is indeed a big six. I have a cross member for you, as well as being VERY familiar with the early mount location and what you need to do to get it correct..
    vic


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    Old Skool
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    Post by Old Skool Wed Feb 15, 2012 9:19 am

    Re-Reading, and boy did I call that one right!! youre comment about the radiator proving that.
    IF if were mine, the least of the problems is the drive shaft, (about six different ones) very least is cut and shorten to minimize all the rest of your issues.
    Install a FULL 170 cross member, weld the mounts in both sides as should have been done in the correct location to begin with. Correct your transmission mounting with a cross member for it as it will more than likely be the under tranny type mount.
    I have three tail stocks if you want to go in any of those directions. The OEM 64 only C4 short donut mount, a short solid yoke under tranny mount C4 tail stock, and the 65-67 Econoline short tail stock.
    Put in a real cross member, move the engine back to the correct position (LEAVE the oil pan alone!!)install a rear cross member, shorten the drive shaft and DRIVE IT..
    vic

    Econoline PU 250ci oil pan dilema 100_1142

    Econoline PU 250ci oil pan dilema 100_1143

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    Post by Guest Wed Feb 15, 2012 8:13 pm

    OK, so where do I find a full 170 crossmember? Used or is it an aftermarket item?
    From this picture of my existing crossmember (assumed to be for a V8), is it mounted in the correct location? If I find or get a full 170 crossmember will it need to be attached in a different position? You mentioned before I'd need Maverick motor mounts for the 250ci. Same question, where to get those, used or aftermarket?
    Econoline PU 250ci oil pan dilema E100_p14

    this picture was as far back as I could get the motor and the line up of the mounts to the crossmember. So the reason to move the engine probably 3 more inches forward.
    Econoline PU 250ci oil pan dilema Engine11

    ps. I wish my underside looked as clean as your pix
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    Post by Old Skool Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:13 pm

    You need to remember that the only early that had a C4 in it was a 64. Also, know that none of the earlies had a hump in the back of the doghouse for clearance like the 65 to 67's.
    SO!! I would suggest putting in a 65 to 67 doghouse and weld in a matching floor hump. I just happen to have the floor humps for sale, just for this reason.
    Anyways, that will solve THREE ISSUES. One is now you can use the correct larger 240 radiator you will need, 2nd is the taller height of the late doghouse to match your taller motor, and 3rdly, you can now mount the motor up higher like a late. Remember the 64 had two frame holes to drop the motor for bellhousing clearance.
    If you now want to use the donout mount and short tail and not use an under tranny cross member, you can now do it. OR if you want to not use the weaker donout mount, then you can use a late, short solid output yoke tail stock, with a stronger under tranny type mount. The pic I posted earlier shows a short C6 tail stock with the under tranny mount and my cross member..
    all of the above in addition to the 65 to 67 small six full cross member. You should put that in anyways with the stronger motor...
    Hope that helps, as your motor definitely needs to move rear ward...
    vic

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