Does Por 15 Really work? How can we tell?

Just got my new '63 Econo PU the truck is just about rust free, one reason I bought it.
After saying that I still have a spot here and there with surface rust. Where the rear gate hinges bolt in I want to protect it from future rust.
So does Por 15 really work? How can we tell as it is a fairly new product as far as rust takes years to develop.
Do you really need the three steps
1. Marine clean
2. Metal ready
3. Por 15

What do you guys, that know more then I do think? Should I use this product, all the steps or is there another product out there better.
Donn

Donn,
POR15 has been around for longer than most rust products. It is used to encapsulate the rusted areas after you have neutralized the rust. I have used it for years with great success and really like it. The key like all products is to properly prep the area. I restored my 84 Jeep CJ7 back in 2002 using POR15 to seal the frame after pulling the body and blasting. You can also thin it down to make it spray-able for shooting the inside walls and undercarriage. But be very careful! Wear gloves and a mask. This stuff does not wash off and once it dries it has to wear off!

I'm still driving it today!!!

Dan

There is also masterseries. Its less prep time and just as good of a product

There is also Rust Bullet.
The issues I have heard w/POR is that it can chip easily and that it is not long-lasting in direct sunlight.
The chipping may be explained by prep, the UV can be resolved by top coating.
I haven't used it myself.

Dan,
Did you use the three step system?

Por claims that the uv will hurt the product and advise's to use an over coat.

it's on the inside of my fuel tank and no issues in 10 years.

It works great! I used the 2 stage (metal ready por 15) on a 1967 cub cadet mower deck in 1993-4. Both top and underside. It has a top coat of rustolium applied with a brush. To this day Im still cutting grass with it, No chipping peeling rust none of that. Id say it works well.

IMHO All three steps ARE required. I used their three part system about 10 years ago on some freshly sandblasted upper control arms for an S-10 I was doing a V-8 conversion on. After the sandblast, I tried to just go to the final step but it just kinda went on as if there was some dirt or film on the metal. I cleaned it off and went through the proper steps including the etching (my wording). When you put the final black coat on it looked like the consistancy of (my words) Sharpie ink! It covered very well but wasn't thick. That's fine. Once it dried, I assembled the bushings and upper ball joint and as hard as I tried to NOT to be careful, I could not scratch or chip it off! I was and still am impressed with the product. If you're gonna spend the money and use it, do it as the directions tell you to. I can't speak to the process of putting it on on rusted parts. When I had clean parts it was strong and lasting. I called my buddy that has the truck and he said although the parts are dirty, they are still rust free. Larry Gill in East China Mi.
P.S. I do not sell the stuff but am happy with the product!

Donn wrote:Dan,
Did you use the three step system?

Por claims that the uv will hurt the product and advise's to use an over coat.

Yes... You need to go through the step and do it correctly. firea100 explained it well. And it will last!!!!

Dan

OK, if it is good enough for you guys...I am going with it, all three stages..
Thanks for all your input.
Donn

I've had success with it. as mentioned, it does need to be top coated, not UV friendly.

http://masterseriesct.com/

if anyone wants to order or read up on it.

Works pretty good 'til you get brake fluid on it...

I used KBS rust seal on my truck last year and I like it better than por15. The prep is 3 stage too but a little more intense and it comes in different colors too. I've heard that the guy that puts it out helped develop POR 15.

http://www.kbs-coatings.com/

No offense but only benwah's experience means much to me as he's talking well over 5 years. I would love to hear feedback in the plus 10 year range if anybody has it.

I've used all mentioned and kept records so in about 5 years or first failure I'll be chiming in. So, far, about 5yrs out still good. All tho, INHO need acid tx before coating.

And, if you are spraying any of these products please use a very good respirator with air supply. These water cured synthetics like to cure in one's lungs and if you survive COPD and a bed is waiting for you.

I was turned on to POR 15 from a Amazing Car Restorer in my area. This guy swore by it and from what ive seen and heard its the real deal. As Mentioned you have to follow the step/instructions well to get the best application.

I will be using POR15 to coat my floor in my econoline eventually when I get to it.

I've had good luck with the product but you have read the instuction and "do it" I always spray paint over the por when I'm done so it is extra protected !!!!!!!!! Bob

had thoughts of using this inside the frame rails, but how would you do the prep work? as much as i beleive its a good product, everytime i want to use it, it is somewhere i cant scrape or sand. is there a product that can be sprayed over exsisting rust?

Eastwood sells a product for the internals of frame rails. I bought 4 cans of it and half used 3-1/2. They come with a 18" hose with a nozzle and work great. No prep work required. It is $20 a can so I only use it were it is hard to get to, like the inside of the a-pillars.

I bought this kit on ebay over here....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DINITROL-RUST-PROOFING-WAX-KIT-LITRES-XLARGE-Carr-FREE-/120718655606?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item1c1b648076

It is a brilliant product and has everything you need to treat the underside of a van. It comes with a long tube with a brass nozzle on the end that sprays the stuff out in all directions. This can be threaded down the frame rails and slowly withdrawn as you spray.... Awesome stuff, and my van is totally coated in it underneath... I also did inside all the doors and anywhere else i could think of....
Sy

Like I had said in my above posts. I restored my 1984 CJ7 in early 2002 using POR-15 and its still looking good 10 years later. The key with any coating whether paint, sealant, rustproofing or any encapsulation product is in proper preparation. If its not done correctly then how good the product is really doesn't matter.

And as for the "Rust Bullet"... Unless you have a clean un-pitted surface I wouldn't waste your time or money. It's more like a protective coating the a true encapsulating agent like POR-15. And if you spill gas, anti-freeze, tranny fluid or oil, it start to peal off in a few days....

*** If you want a good "Combo" the try this:

1. Clean metal (Wire wheel works great)
2. Spray Purple Power rust remover http://www.clean-rite.com/purplepower_de-ruster.html
3. Let sit over night. (At least 24hrs for best penetration)
4. Clean metal with a good "Prep" agent.. http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-pre-painting-prep.html?reltype=2&parent_id=4686
(Do not use any water based anything!), Let completely dry!
5. Apply POR-15 per instructions on can or Kit whichever you purchase.. http://www.eastwood.com/rust-solutions/por-15.html?srccode=ga110080&gclid=CKa305mj7aoCFcEC2godIED2Pw

This is what I did and used on my Jeep 10 years ago and its still rust-free and protected as the day I did it!

I used POR-15 on the inside of my A100 gas tank, and no problems after 2 years.
I also painted it on the diff head of my GTX just 'cause I had some spare - no problems after 10 years,
and also coated the front brake rotors and calipers on the GTX over 10 years ago - no rust, and you would expect the heat to be quite fierce on those parts.

I just used it last year, but I'm not saying anything because my opinion doesn't matter....hahaha!!!

Roman wrote:I just used it last year, but I'm not saying anything because my opinion doesn't matter....hahaha!!!

???????

I've been using KBS rust stop instead. http://www.kbs-coatings.com/rustseal.html