318 Engine Options

My 318 lost compression the other day. Several things happened but it had been running ok with a little smoke out of the breather. Pretty sure the head gasket went bad but the situation I am in is...

The engine is apart and it looks like besides the head gasket it probably needs to be bored out, it has about a .005 ridge in all the cylinders and while I have not taken the valves out yet it probably will need a valve job. In my area the machine shops generally want about 350 for the valve job and upwards of 800 to 1000 for the block which includes .020 over bore and new bearings.

I just want something to run good, not fast just reliable. Looks like from what I have found so far 1300+ for rebuild, 1700+ for long block or 850 for a used running motor from a mopar yard.

Any suggestions or ideas.

Thanks

another source for a long block
http://www.precisionengine.com/rebuilt-engines/dodge-mopar/index.html

I'd also suggest considering an '88-90 roller motor. With all the zinc being removed from modern oils, a roller cam for the same price is smart.

If you go with a 318 long block, you will have to swap over the distributor, intake, valve covers, front cover, water pump, fuel pump, oil pan and probably the oil filter adapter, and the harmonic balancer and pulleys.
Things to watch for:
The front cover and water pump were changed around 1970. They are paired with the harmonic balancer; the timing marks are opposite the WP inlet. Make sure you have good parts that match. It's common for the water passages in the front cover between the WP and the block to corrode.
The roller motor may not have the fuel pump eccentric and spot on the front cover for a fuel pump.
You can swap in a 360, but they have a couple things that may fight you.
The left side motor mount is different than the 273/318.
The engine is externally balanced. This means that the harmonic balancer and the flywheel or converter are not nueutral. On the front, you have to see if the 360 balancer will work with your setup, and the flywheel needs to be swapped (manual) or you need a 360 converter OR a weighted flexplate that will allow a neutral converter (auto).

Good reading for which ever choice you make. An informed purchase is the right way to go, even if you don't want 400 HP!
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/engine/mopp_0312_318_long_block_bolt_ons/index.html

http://www.hotrod.com/howto/113_0304_318_small_block_build/index.html

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0810phr_chrysler_318_engine/index.html

http://www.squidoo.com/Mopar318

A friend of mine recently got a 350 4 bolt marine engine from these guys and he's very happy with them. They're around 63rd and Harlem (Bedford Park area). He said a rebuilt long block should cost you around $1,200 and they may be able to rebuild yours for less.

http://www.chicagoengines.com/about/faq.htm

http://www.chicagoengines.com/

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=6212+S.+New+England+Ave.+%20Chicago%2C+Illinois+60638+%20

Please let me know what they quote you. I may need one some day. Good Luck

Thanks for the info guys I am reading and checking into it. I measured the cylinders tonight, 3.918, not to bad.

If your thinking about re-ringing it and freshening up the heads, The thing I would check for is cylinder taper(top to bottom) or sometimes high milers get an egg shaped thing going, so check the bore dimensions in several clocked positions if you can.

You can always check craigslist in your area, both "car parts" and "cars for sale". It's not uncommon to find a car/truck with a running driveline that you can buy cheaper than just getting an engine that you cant hear run. Maybe get a used running 318 on the cheap while you get yours fixed?

Here's a 318 for $400, I use "searchtempest" to search multiple craigslist sites at once btw.

eta: check the RV/Motorhome section as well, not hard to find a running 318/360 in a small class C. Lots of the old class c's will leak and get water damaged and people just sell them for the driveline parts.

Thanks for the info and tips. I will be doing this one myself. I have it pulled and will slowly be going through everything. The heads are off and completely apart, all of the valves look good with no shake. I did find that 2 of the intake valves on each side had the 2 groove keeper while all of the other valves had the 4 groove, maybe the heads were done before.

The camshaft has some scoring and the lifters do show some signs of wear, a little concave on the bottom.

I had just replaced the timing sprocket and gears as they were shot.

The cylinders all look good size wise. One has a scratch that should not affect anything. I will be removing the ridge myself and honing.

I still need to check all of the bearings for size and will determine what needs to be done. New camshaft and lifters means new cam bearings no matter what.

With the intake and heads off the engine lifted right out with 2 guys. Lost both engine mounts in the process though but they looked bad to begin with.

I am on a tight budget so I am going to try not to cut to many corners but it will be necessary.

My 2 cents is if you aren't hot tanking the block and the cam bearings look good, leave them. Spend the money on a balance job.