With all the great advice I’ve seen here, I thought I’d add a small bit. I apologize in advance for the pictures, I am NOT a photo guy.
I stripped out all the insides of my 1966 A-100 front doors today, so follow along. The diagram shows a ‘68-later passenger door, the pictures are my ‘66 (early) driver door.
Here is a diagram of the parts in this process.
Remove the inner panel and the inner handles.
Raise the window all the way, then remove the bolt at the bottom of the vent window frame.
Here is the part that hurts, since I haven’t found replacement rubber yet. Pry out the vent window rubber about 2 inches down the leading edge. There is a small screw there. Remove the screw.
This next part I didn’t have to do, so I don’t have a removal picture. There is another screw on the bottom edge under the rubber about even with the front of the flange for the vent window handle. Here is a picture of it after it was removed, looking at the frame from the outside, looking up.
Mine didn’t have a screw on either side, and only the driver side had the clip shown. This is also an area to inspect for cracks. Mine needs help as you can see!
This should free the whole frame, but it won’t come out yet. Roll the window all the way down. Remove the run from the top of the window frame. You can remove the whole thing if you are replacing it.
Now wiggle the frame to make sure it is not sticking or there are other fasteners hiding somewhere. When free, it can tilt forward at the bottom and back at the top. Remove the whole thing. Don’t lose the fasteners you removed.
With the frame out of the door, the window can tilt forward and the channel can slide off the regulator.
I prefer to use an impact driver, since the bits are the right size and I can grab and twist better. Remove the screws and the regulator. I also put back the screws so I don’t lose them!
Next is the outer handle. Pop the 2 covers if still there. Push on the edge tangs from the inside to prevent bending and chipping. These allow a straight shot to the nut (forward end) and the screw and plate (button end). Before removing them, undo the clip holding the linkage. This is MUCH easier to do when both ends are steady! If your doors have any junk in the bottom, it’s smart to lay a towel down to prevent loosing the clips. I suggest popping the clips at both ends. The handle end is a simple clip that pries off.
The clips at the latch (lock) end are different. There are pictures and an explanation later, so please read all the way through before starting. Here is a view of the nut for the handle. The screw picture was too blurry. (worse than these?)
Here is a view of the latch (lock) looking down into the window opening with all the linkages attached in place. Top left is the outside handle, bottom right is the inside handle.
Okay, so remove the outside handle linkage, then the handle. On mine a sharp pop to the bottom of the handle was needed to jar it loose.
Now the lock cylinder is removed. The linkage clip should be moved up to release it from the latch. Then there is a clip that slides back to allow the cylinder to come out. On this one, the clip slid okay, but getting the loose cylinder out was a pain.
Remove the screws and the inside door release (remote control in the first figure). It should just twist off the linkage. Note the clip location.
Remove the inside lock knob linkage. It has the same type of clip as the lock cylinder. Leave the inside door release (remote control) linkage on. Remove the screws and the latch (lock). It will take a bit of wiggling to get out.
All the latch (lock) parts are now out. Here’s a picture with them set out in rough positions.
The inside lock knob is at top left. The outside lock cylinder is at top right. The outside handle is at middle right. The inside door release (remote control) linkage is at lower left.
CLIPS
The clips used on the latch (lock) are not simple E-clips. You have to know how they work to remove them without damage. They slide to release the linkage, then the linkage is removed, then the clip is removed if needed. These are easy to assemble (good for assembly lines), just slide the clip on and snap the linkage in. The outside handle linkage clip is similar; slide it off to remove the linkage. For these examples, I used the lock cylinder linkage. Here is the tip of the linkage that you can’t see when installed.
Here it is with the clip and linkage in place.
Here it is with the clip slid over to allow linkage removal.
I stripped out all the insides of my 1966 A-100 front doors today, so follow along. The diagram shows a ‘68-later passenger door, the pictures are my ‘66 (early) driver door.
Here is a diagram of the parts in this process.
Remove the inner panel and the inner handles.
Raise the window all the way, then remove the bolt at the bottom of the vent window frame.
Here is the part that hurts, since I haven’t found replacement rubber yet. Pry out the vent window rubber about 2 inches down the leading edge. There is a small screw there. Remove the screw.
This next part I didn’t have to do, so I don’t have a removal picture. There is another screw on the bottom edge under the rubber about even with the front of the flange for the vent window handle. Here is a picture of it after it was removed, looking at the frame from the outside, looking up.
Mine didn’t have a screw on either side, and only the driver side had the clip shown. This is also an area to inspect for cracks. Mine needs help as you can see!
This should free the whole frame, but it won’t come out yet. Roll the window all the way down. Remove the run from the top of the window frame. You can remove the whole thing if you are replacing it.
Now wiggle the frame to make sure it is not sticking or there are other fasteners hiding somewhere. When free, it can tilt forward at the bottom and back at the top. Remove the whole thing. Don’t lose the fasteners you removed.
With the frame out of the door, the window can tilt forward and the channel can slide off the regulator.
I prefer to use an impact driver, since the bits are the right size and I can grab and twist better. Remove the screws and the regulator. I also put back the screws so I don’t lose them!
Next is the outer handle. Pop the 2 covers if still there. Push on the edge tangs from the inside to prevent bending and chipping. These allow a straight shot to the nut (forward end) and the screw and plate (button end). Before removing them, undo the clip holding the linkage. This is MUCH easier to do when both ends are steady! If your doors have any junk in the bottom, it’s smart to lay a towel down to prevent loosing the clips. I suggest popping the clips at both ends. The handle end is a simple clip that pries off.
The clips at the latch (lock) end are different. There are pictures and an explanation later, so please read all the way through before starting. Here is a view of the nut for the handle. The screw picture was too blurry. (worse than these?)
Here is a view of the latch (lock) looking down into the window opening with all the linkages attached in place. Top left is the outside handle, bottom right is the inside handle.
Okay, so remove the outside handle linkage, then the handle. On mine a sharp pop to the bottom of the handle was needed to jar it loose.
Now the lock cylinder is removed. The linkage clip should be moved up to release it from the latch. Then there is a clip that slides back to allow the cylinder to come out. On this one, the clip slid okay, but getting the loose cylinder out was a pain.
Remove the screws and the inside door release (remote control in the first figure). It should just twist off the linkage. Note the clip location.
Remove the inside lock knob linkage. It has the same type of clip as the lock cylinder. Leave the inside door release (remote control) linkage on. Remove the screws and the latch (lock). It will take a bit of wiggling to get out.
All the latch (lock) parts are now out. Here’s a picture with them set out in rough positions.
The inside lock knob is at top left. The outside lock cylinder is at top right. The outside handle is at middle right. The inside door release (remote control) linkage is at lower left.
CLIPS
The clips used on the latch (lock) are not simple E-clips. You have to know how they work to remove them without damage. They slide to release the linkage, then the linkage is removed, then the clip is removed if needed. These are easy to assemble (good for assembly lines), just slide the clip on and snap the linkage in. The outside handle linkage clip is similar; slide it off to remove the linkage. For these examples, I used the lock cylinder linkage. Here is the tip of the linkage that you can’t see when installed.
Here it is with the clip and linkage in place.
Here it is with the clip slid over to allow linkage removal.