Re: All Systems STOPPED...

sasktrini · by sasktrini on Tue Sep 08, 2009 9:37 am

$50? Wow! What would they cost at a NAPA?

There are a couple guys here that are close to Vancouver, Canada... I'm just not one of them.

Scott · by Scott on Tue Sep 08, 2009 9:57 am

I can't find them anyplace else..

But I just started looking, given a little time more will probably pop up.

Scott · by Scott on Wed Oct 28, 2009 9:37 am

The stuck float I got a month or so ago has become a routine problem. I can thump the side of the Carb a few times then it usually starts. I also found one of the Exhaust Gaskets has blown out between the head and the manifold. I was putting off installing the new engine, wanted it on the road for a little while before I installed it. But its gotten to where I'm putting in money to keep the old engine running.

The Exhaust and Carb problems have pushed me over the edge, I'm going to go ahead and pull the old engine.

Here's a pic. of whats going in..

Any suggestions on how to pull the old one out? I figure on pulling it from the side, but the transmission needs to come off first. Since the engine sits on two legs, and leans back on the transmission, I'm thinking that I will have to support the engine with the hoist while I remove the transmission.

Is that wrong or right, and do you have any suggestions?

itruns · by itruns on Wed Oct 28, 2009 11:11 am

Does that say "MerCruiser" on the black plate?

Scott · by Scott on Wed Oct 28, 2009 11:21 am

Yep..

Really that is two front plates, but the guy I got it from couldn't find a back plate to match. The difference is the indention for the distributor is on the front plates.

**donivan65** · by **donivan65** on Wed Oct 28, 2009 11:40 am

The engine can come out from under the van, side doors or passenger door,,,,,knock that pin out of the door stop and you can open that passenger door 180 degrees to get an engine hoist in there. The engine pretty much balances on the motor mounts when the transmission is out,,,,,but put a jackstand under the rear end of oil pan or a board across the doghouse tied to the engine to be safe until you pull it out....

Scott · by Scott on Wed Oct 28, 2009 12:28 pm

Will the PowerGlide need to slide back to disconnect from the engine, or once I remove the radiator will I have enough room to slide the engine forward?

A lot of seals need to be replaced in the transmission so I will probably drop it out to work on it anyway, but I want a clear understanding, it may change the order of how I do all this.

Thanks for the jackstand and door pin ideas.

**donivan65** · by **donivan65** on Wed Oct 28, 2009 2:20 pm

I think in reality, if you undo the torque converter and bellhousing bolts, the engine will slide forward enough to come out leaving the trans in place, if you wanted it to. And its a good idea to get that radiator out of there 1st,,,,,,,,

Scott · by Scott on Tue Nov 03, 2009 10:14 am

Engine Pull Sunday..

Removed the fan and radiator in this first pic, after that went the wires, linkage, and Starter.

First of four or five attempts,

I disconnected the Transmission Bell Housing, Torque Converter, and Engine Mounts. With a Jack Stand under the Transmission we lifted the engine a little and moved it around enough to get it to break loose from the Transmission. The thing slid forward probably six or eight inches, but it wouldn't let go of the Torque Converter. At this point the Transmission was resting on the stand, which blocked me from placing a pan under the converter as it poured quarts of fluid onto my garage floor. I finally gave up on removing the Converter, but couldn't pull the engine because the Converter was still hung inside the Bell Housing. I had no choice but to quickly remove the Transmission to get it out of the way, big fun laying in a puddle of Transmission Fluid. I was surprised how easy it was to pull it, looking back I wish I had done that in the beginning.

Once the Bell Housing wasn't a problem anymore the engine was still hanging on the Doghouse a little, so I removed the Surge Tank, the Fan Pulley, and Water Spout over the Thermostat, that gave me enough room to lift out the engine. As you can see in the picture I had to adjust the chain so it lifted out at a major angle to get it to clear.

Finally got it to clear the opening, but it wouldn't lift high enough, so we set it down one more time to shorten the chain.

Scrappy shot of me, or victory shot..? It's almost like I'm showing off the big fish I caught.

The last is just a shot of the old and the new.

If I had to do this over again, I would just drop the Transmission first, make sure my lift chain is short as possible, and not even try to pull it until the Torque Converter is removed from the engine.

**donivan65** · by **donivan65** on Tue Nov 03, 2009 11:16 am

I don't see how that converter is staying on the flexplate,,,,,once you remove the 3 bolts the converter should of just slid into the bell housing away from the engine,,,,,, I guess you will find out once you bolt the trans back on without making sure the torque converter is fully seated and you break the front pump,,,,,,,

Scott · by Scott on Tue Nov 03, 2009 11:30 am

Now that the engine is out it I can get it to wobble to one side or the other, but not drop off. To be honest I haven't been back in the garage since I cleaned up my mess from pulling it. I figure I will put some shims in from different sides to pop it off whatever is holding it.

Putting it together, don't I just bolt the converter to the flywheel, then bring in the transmission?

Or do I need to put it on the shaft of the transmission, then attach it to the flywheel with the transmission in place?

I know its going to be a pain to line that thing back up, but what do you mean by fully seated, and how can I tell?

**donivan65** · by **donivan65** on Tue Nov 03, 2009 1:04 pm

You would never get the transmission back on if the converter is bolted to the engine,,,,,the converter has to engage 2 shafts in the trans,,,,,a spline and then the slots you see on the end of the converter. The right way is to put the converter on the trans and then keep turning it and pushing it in until it drops in deeper. And the test is, with the converter on, and the trans up against the engine, the converter should be at least 1/4" away from the flex plate,,,,the converter should easily spin by hand and not touch the flex plate if it is indexed correctly into the front pump tabs. If you bolt up the trans and force the converter into the trans, bad stuff happens. when you get the converter off, put it on the trans a few times, you will see what I mean, turn it while pushing it in,,,,,you will feel a definately feel a pop when it is REALLY IN,,,,it should never hit the flexplate when you are tightening up the trans bolts,,,it sits back in the bell housing until you slide it forward to bolt it to the flexplate,,,,,,,,,

Scott · by Scott on Wed Nov 04, 2009 11:15 am

Thanks for giving me the how-to Donivan..

Your probably right, I would have broken the pump.

So, when I remove that pump to replace the leaking gasket are parts going to drop out, or is it a pretty simple remove and put back? And are there any other parts I should replace while I'm replacing all the gaskets?

I considered having the thing rebuilt while its out, but I don't really want to until I decide if I'm going to keep it, or switch to a 200r, or 700r. I found a place that would just do the rebuild for $500, which I didn't think was to shabby, unless I figure out how to do it myself.

One reason I hold back on switching to a different transmission is that it will mess-up my automatic column, and I don't know how well the shift rods will sync to a different one. Figured I would just try to get this one on the road to see how much I like or don't like it.

I popped that converter off the old engine, took all of five minutes. I just pounded some 1x2s in from three different angles. Looks like the center hump that sticks out of the converter was wedged into the end of the crank.

Do you think that's something I'm going to need to worry about when I move it over to the next engine?

**donivan65** · by **donivan65** on Wed Nov 04, 2009 7:16 pm

Looks like a normal situation to me,,,,,,that converter rusted onto the end of the crankshaft,,,,,,I guess you could of started off by unbolting the converter and once you found out that it would not slide back away from the flexplate, you could of started up the engine and put it in gear until the converter came loose,,,,,,or WD 40 it,,,,,,but you surely did it the hard way,,,,,,but thats good for us,,,,,,everything you ever wanted to know about torque converters. Once you clean it up, it will be good to go,,,Anti seize compound wouldnt hurt. You need to do the selector shaft seal by pulling off the pan and undoing the shaft and sliding it out. That front pump has the seal and also a gasket or o ring on it,,,,,Stuff might come out when you pull the cover off but stand the trans upright and tap on the cover while pulling it up to minimize anything being pulled out of the trans......

Scott · by Scott on Thu Nov 19, 2009 8:34 am

I hadn’t pulled an engine since about 1987, so I really couldn’t remember how all that was put together. I was afraid to start wedging things between the Flexplate and the Torque Converter, thought maybe I missed something, and I was in no position to jump on here and ask questions., just had to make the best of it. Once again I had to learn the hard way, but I sure wont forget anytime soon.

Hey Donivan, thanks for the advice on opening the Transmission. I haven’t done it yet, still getting the dirt, oil, and grease, off that thing before I open it up. I think you posted a part number for the Transmission Gasket Kit once, you happen to have it still? Looking online I am only finding individual gaskets, would rather get a kit.